The Science of Healthy Skin and Ageing Writing about wellbeing from a scientific standpoint, I am keen to translate the latest research into clinical practice. The advancement of science in the Microbiome area is unprecedented – learning from the gut impact on health and mental wellbeing. And so with the skin – brain connection, the fMRI brain images of skin contact of mother and child are revolutionary. The skin is an envelope of our body and internal health – both physical and mental health, etched into the surface and visible. As a skin specialist, I have joined the Old Hall Clinic in Manchester to work alongside the best in alternative medicine in the North. I am also looking forward to aligning my practice with the US Personalised Lifestyle Medicine Institute early next year. Everyone can practise wellbeing and Dr Rangan Chatterjee’s podcasts are a great way to start. The art and science of the life/work balance, our daily choices and rituals, the balance of physical touch and virtual-world exposure – we will be facing these forever. The internet of things is connecting and disconnecting at the same time. Please join me to explore new science-based and practical recommendations for your skin health and ageing, personalised to your skin type, lifestyle and circumstances.
In preparation for my talk on touch at the Anti-Ageing Conference in London, I am looking at evidence for facial massage. Massage appears to inﬂuence the entire face and this may be one reason why visual evaluation is difﬁcult. The combination of 3D-CT analysis (enables us to recognize anatomical changes in the subcutaneous structures of the face) and visual assessment helps to evaluate the effects of facial massage in detail. The nasolabial folds are groove-like structures running outside of the nasal alae and the corners of the mouth. They are easy to evaluate visually. The adipose tissue out-side of the nasolabial folds is thick and forms the shape of the cheek. Facial massage method: Using cosmetic cream as a lubricant, facial skin and muscles were massaged relaxing the muscles and promoting blood and lymph ﬂow. The massage procedure (5 min long, repeated twice): 1) kneading the entire facial muscles with a ﬁnger tip, 2) upward rubbing from the bottom to top of the face with a whole finger (from jaw line, to cheek, forehead, and eyes) 3) rubbing from the bottom to the top of the face with all four ﬁngers RESULTS: Facial massage caused morphological changes at multiple locations on the face: a) the subcutaneous soft tissue around the jaw tightened, soft tissues moved upwards at sites around the jaw b) the thickness of fat tissue at the nasal
In this episode, we took a deep dive into cosmetic products. We spoke about what a cosmetic product is, effective active ingredients for different skin types, cultural differences in how we treat our skin, building our own skincare routine and more. Enjoy! Listen to the podcast here.
My interview with The EcoWell in Canada on skin biology and skin ageing. Enjoy! In this episode, we covered skin biology, including the structure of your skin as it relates to cosmetics, skin conditions like acne, the ageing process of your skin, and lots more. Listen to the podcast here.
My signature 4 Anti-Ageing Serum contains high concentration of Renovage™. I can write about the science underpinning this ingredient for a long time but a picture is worth a thousand words. We take all criteria into account when assessing a face, it is the cumulative effect we see. Our faces age at an individual pace. “She looks her age...” you might say observing a face with very few wrinkles but sagging, pigmentation spots, dull complexion and rough texture.. On the other hand, firm, uniform and glowing complexion with a few lines spells the “she looks young” verdict.. Have a look at how European and US companies use the manufacturer's data in pictures [above] and words: Renovage™ has long been used to heal stomach ulcers inhibiting inflammatory cytokines and increasing the activity of heat shock proteins to make the tissue more resistant. It has been proposed Renovage™ reduces redness and sun spots and minimizes skin pore size, and can help firm and tighten sagging skin. The proposed mode of action is “inhibition of shortening of telomeres” [the end caps of DNA] that naturally shorten small amounts with each round of cellular replication. However, Renovage™ may work simply by reducing inflammation in the skin, which has benefits both in the short-term [decreased redness, lessened swelling] and long-term [reduced signs of ageing, loss of collagen,
I read India Knight's Sunday Times Style column with interest and, secretly, have a conversation with her every time she publishes a piece on facial skincare. The Strike Oil article on 1st January caught my eye. Introducing the world of facials that can make an actual, immediate and noticeable difference to your appearance and improve your complexion overtime to the general public is a great message. Only one in four women in Britain has a regular facial, and usually not by a highly trained facialist. Also highlighting the expertise of London-based celebrity facialists, with magic hands and a range of tools from massage, peels to resurfacing and stimulating devices is fabulous. As India notes, super-facialists aren't cheap and have waiting lists. But not every super-facialist lives in London, there are a handfull living outside of the capital who also bring "power facials" and "face gym" hands-on skills and expertise; East Yorkshire, in my case. Glowing, healthy skin requires more than a monthly facial, it is an at-home routine. Super-facialists have their own range of products that you can buy to use at home; they may not be cheap, but they work. India has faith in their expertise and likes the pared-down simplicity of Amanda Lacey's range. Praising her Oils of Provence luxurious face oil [lavender, sage, ramose, eucalyptus, bois de rose] for oily skin, India
In the New Year, we will be discussing the "power facial" and "face gym" as an alternative to Botox. All of the most sought-after London facialists are offering facial massage-based treatments: Nicola Joss is renowned for incorporating internal mouth work into her facial massage to reduce tension and loosen the jaw. Deborah Mitchell treats Botox-free celebrities with LIA therapy technique, a nonsurgical healing facelift, to tighten the skin and clear sinuses. Amanda Lacey promotes facial manipulation to redefine, soften and relax the face, so it looks natural. There is no need to travel to London to appreciate a "facial with a difference". My facial massage based treatments are on a par with the London offerings for a fraction of the price. The FaceWorkshops Anti-Ageing Massage treatment is an advanced massage sequence of ten complementary steps - backed up with science - brings your face back to life. It makes you instantly feel and look good and if done regularly, it will stimulate and tone your facial muscles and lift and contour the face, giving it a better definition. All facials need commitment. All facials need commitment - they are no one-hit wonder. If you come once, it will give you a glow. Ideally, you would have a course of treatments close together and come back regularly for top-ups. As
"We assess facial appearance as a whole; unconsciously adding-up visible signs of ageing. Restoring a youthful appearance means reducing the appearance of multiple parameters - lines and wrinkles, sagging [loss of tone], pigmentation, redness, dry skin, dilated pores, and the irregularities of the skin surface. All of the ageing signs are related to less efficient cell physiology; a skin composed of "ageing cells" enters the senescence phase more rapidly than necessary. It's due to a successive accumulation of DNA damage over time; less effectively repaired and less well protected DNA." Prolonging Cell Longevity. Renovage™ - geranylgeranone, is a high-tech global anti-ageing ingredient that acts on the four dimensions of skin ageing: surface, depth and time. It provides anti-ageing and protective effects against stress related damage by maintaining cell division [telomere stabilization and DNA maintenance], improving tissue quality [by optimal cell communication and rebalancing cell metabolism]. Renovage™ prolongs cell lifespan extension by one third. Clinical & Cell Culture Results. RENOVAGE™ acts as a cell facilitator and corrector. In vitro studies show several properties that aid recovery of skin function and structure to avoid premature entry into cell senescence. Protection and repair of oxidative lesions and nucleic elements Keeping of catalasic antioxidant protection to 100% Reduction of apoptosis after UVB radiation exposure Reduction in the expression of heat shock proteins HSP27 and HSP70 The entry in senescence of fibroblasts is
We ran a small perception study on the 2016 Aldi Cuvee Royal Advent Calendar, which features 24 skincare treats for the month of December. The calendar contains a mix of 'mini-treatment ampules' for all skin types, including acne-prone and oily skin. Given the age and skin types of my participants, we tested 3 different ampules - hydrating, lifting and bi-phasic rejuvenating ampule with retinol - each for two consecutive nights. This was an independent study and the participants were unaware of any clinical results or packaging; they were evaluating “skin feel” and ampule application only. Age and skin type of participants below, all Caucasian and based in Yorkshire. In Summary Ampules are new to the British consumer. They work great when used seasonally, for a specific outcome. The measured-out dose is perceived as a benefit, yet it is clear the liquid formulas should be mixed with a night moisturiser [or an evening oil]. As the Aldi Calendar contains high-tech active ingredients, the actives in the night moisturiser have to be compatible with the ampules [the combination with the Aldi Cuvee moisturisers should work well]. The calendar offers a route to personalisation, however, it caters for too many different skin types at once, without detailed instructions. RRP 19.99 GBP SPEND. Ideal for combination skin types [with oily T-zone and dry U-zone] aged
There is more to an effective skincare routine than expensive products! I come across women who are devoted to expensive skincare brands, yet with little visible result to their skin, and others who do wonders on a shoe string. There are parallels with food - buying quality raw ingredients is only the start to creating a delicious meal. It is the tips and tricks of the application, smart combinations of the ingredients, understanding your skin, lifestyle and seasons - and regular therapy that can make a noticeable difference to your face. My clients who get the best results do the following: Cherish their skincare products [like expensive perfume] Use skincare products to their best potential Have regular facial treatments Adopt a holistic approach incorporating advice on relaxation, diet and facial exercise into their skincare routine. They ask me to recommend the best products [to a budget and across all brands] and edit their skincare routines regularly to achieve results. I like to talk to an engaged audience who are truly interested in 'properly' looking after their skin with efficacious products & treatments. This goes beyond the brand story; reading the ingredient list and looking at the scientific evidence is essential. "I feel I am worth it and don’t hesitate to spend on myself. If women are very busy focusing on work & family, they don’t