My interview with The EcoWell in Canada on skin biology and skin ageing. Enjoy! In this episode, we covered skin biology, including the structure of your skin as it relates to cosmetics, skin conditions like acne, the ageing process of your skin, and lots more. Listen to the podcast here.
Lightening & Brightening skincare should reflect that the skin is challenged by transition from cold outdoors to warm indoor temperature in winter. The range of brightening skincare products is overwhelming - and reading the INCI lists essential. Traditional plant extracts have a renaissance in natural skincare. They target all aspects of skin repair such as dull appearance, sub-clinical inflammation aggravated by weather changes, patches of redness and oiliness at the same time, overall uneven skin tone. It is the combination of actives contained in the plant extracts as well as the levels of the extract used that deliver clinical results. Some of the plant staples to look for in your products are listed below: For Extra Hydration Lupin - for skin hydration and improved barrier function Lady's Smock - rich in amino acids and helps skin recovery (re-epithelialisation) Anti-inflammatory Actives Borage - anti-inflammatory, capillary dilating compounds incl. gamma-linolenic acid Centella asiatica - alleviates fragility of capillaries and facilitates re-epithelialisation Anti-pigmentation Shiitake mushroom (contains kojic acid) - prevents melanin formation and collagen breakdown, astringent Mulberry root - brightening, tyrosinase inhibitor reduces melanin synthesis Grape (contains resveratrol) - strong antioxidant, prevents melanin formation and transfer and last but not least Licorice root used in my signature Anti-Ageing Serum '4' - brightening, tyrosinase inhibitor reduces melanin synthesis - also anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial (contains saponins, flavonoids) and
As I am putting final touches on the Mindful Evening Facial Massage Chart, I refer to the work done by Professor Mark Williams in Oxford on Mindfulness Meditation. Stress
My signature 4 Anti-Ageing Serum contains high concentration of Renovage™. I can write about the science underpinning this ingredient for a long time but a picture is worth a thousand words. We take all criteria into account when assessing a face, it is the cumulative effect we see. Our faces age at an individual pace. “She looks her age...” you might say observing a face with very few wrinkles but sagging, pigmentation spots, dull complexion and rough texture.. On the other hand, firm, uniform and glowing complexion with a few lines spells the “she looks young” verdict.. Have a look at how European and US companies use the manufacturer's data in pictures [above] and words: Renovage™ has long been used to heal stomach ulcers inhibiting inflammatory cytokines and increasing the activity of heat shock proteins to make the tissue more resistant. It has been proposed Renovage™ reduces redness and sun spots and minimizes skin pore size, and can help firm and tighten sagging skin. The proposed mode of action is “inhibition of shortening of telomeres” [the end caps of DNA] that naturally shorten small amounts with each round of cellular replication. However, Renovage™ may work simply by reducing inflammation in the skin, which has benefits both in the short-term [decreased redness, lessened swelling] and long-term [reduced signs of ageing, loss of collagen,
Lack of hydration in winter months demonstrates as dry, tight feeling skin that is red, itchy and scaly. Ingredients For Sensitive Skin in Winter I have an expertise in treating sensitive skin types; many of my clients have this skin type, and have reviewed the scientific research in detail. Sensitive skin suffers particularly in winter and skincare should be all about protecting the strength of your skin barrier. When walking outdoors, wrap up warm and watch for that tight feeling that signals low levels of hydration. It leaves your skin more open to environmental damage including broken capillaries and more lines and wrinkles. My signature 4 Anti-Ageing Serum appeals to people with strong eco credentials and seeking science-based products that work: it contains echium oil and liquorice that act as both anti-ageing actives and calming ingredients. Echium oil is an oil rich in omega 3, 6 & 9 essential fatty acids and, in particular in stearidonic acid [SDA]. The anti-inflammatory oil has been proven to regenerate skin by increasing production of structural proteins, reducing wrinkles and surface roughness associated with winter skin. Liquorice has soothing properties – ideal for sensitive and irritated skin, uneven skin tone and hyper-pigmentation. Winter Skincare Recommendations Change your skincare to protect and strengthen your skin barrier with nurturing serum and moisturiser with intensive, hydrating ingredients. Change
Skin barrier breakdown and "compromised" skin are common in the autumn [a patch of eczema, scaly and rough dry skin texture, skin sensitivity and redness] or a wound. The skin acts as a barrier between internal and external environments protecting the body from mechanical damage, external substances, pathogens and irradiation. Changes associated with ageing and the accumulation of exogenous damage can alter skin function affecting skin health and appearance. In order to be effective, nutritional supplementation should reinforce the skin barrier function to withstand these structural and functional changes. OMEGA 6 Having reviewed the evidence, it seems to suggest that oral GLA [γ–Linolenic acid] supplements can improve skin barrier function. A 6% to 31% improvement in skin barrier was reported, which is in line with clinical improvements observed in the elderly; dry and sensitive skin; skin texture; itching; and perceived appearance. The studies that observed no changes in skin barrier though reported other benefits induced by supplementation, e.g., clinical improvement of dry skin texture and increased collagen deposition. However, body weight [BMI] and health status [pro-inflammatory markers in plasma] as well as seasonal changes can impact on the efficacy of the supplement. OMEGA 3 - fish oils and safflower oil do not seem to have the same benefit. Please read the scientific paper in detail.
"We assess facial appearance as a whole; unconsciously adding-up visible signs of ageing. Restoring a youthful appearance means reducing the appearance of multiple parameters - lines and wrinkles, sagging [loss of tone], pigmentation, redness, dry skin, dilated pores, and the irregularities of the skin surface. All of the ageing signs are related to less efficient cell physiology; a skin composed of "ageing cells" enters the senescence phase more rapidly than necessary. It's due to a successive accumulation of DNA damage over time; less effectively repaired and less well protected DNA." Prolonging Cell Longevity. Renovage™ - geranylgeranone, is a high-tech global anti-ageing ingredient that acts on the four dimensions of skin ageing: surface, depth and time. It provides anti-ageing and protective effects against stress related damage by maintaining cell division [telomere stabilization and DNA maintenance], improving tissue quality [by optimal cell communication and rebalancing cell metabolism]. Renovage™ prolongs cell lifespan extension by one third. Clinical & Cell Culture Results. RENOVAGE™ acts as a cell facilitator and corrector. In vitro studies show several properties that aid recovery of skin function and structure to avoid premature entry into cell senescence. Protection and repair of oxidative lesions and nucleic elements Keeping of catalasic antioxidant protection to 100% Reduction of apoptosis after UVB radiation exposure Reduction in the expression of heat shock proteins HSP27 and HSP70 The entry in senescence of fibroblasts is
We ran a small perception study on the 2016 Aldi Cuvee Royal Advent Calendar, which features 24 skincare treats for the month of December. The calendar contains a mix of 'mini-treatment ampules' for all skin types, including acne-prone and oily skin. Given the age and skin types of my participants, we tested 3 different ampules - hydrating, lifting and bi-phasic rejuvenating ampule with retinol - each for two consecutive nights. This was an independent study and the participants were unaware of any clinical results or packaging; they were evaluating “skin feel” and ampule application only. Age and skin type of participants below, all Caucasian and based in Yorkshire. In Summary Ampules are new to the British consumer. They work great when used seasonally, for a specific outcome. The measured-out dose is perceived as a benefit, yet it is clear the liquid formulas should be mixed with a night moisturiser [or an evening oil]. As the Aldi Calendar contains high-tech active ingredients, the actives in the night moisturiser have to be compatible with the ampules [the combination with the Aldi Cuvee moisturisers should work well]. The calendar offers a route to personalisation, however, it caters for too many different skin types at once, without detailed instructions. RRP 19.99 GBP SPEND. Ideal for combination skin types [with oily T-zone and dry U-zone] aged
There is more to an effective skincare routine than expensive products! I come across women who are devoted to expensive skincare brands, yet with little visible result to their skin, and others who do wonders on a shoe string. There are parallels with food - buying quality raw ingredients is only the start to creating a delicious meal. It is the tips and tricks of the application, smart combinations of the ingredients, understanding your skin, lifestyle and seasons - and regular therapy that can make a noticeable difference to your face. My clients who get the best results do the following: Cherish their skincare products [like expensive perfume] Use skincare products to their best potential Have regular facial treatments Adopt a holistic approach incorporating advice on relaxation, diet and facial exercise into their skincare routine. They ask me to recommend the best products [to a budget and across all brands] and edit their skincare routines regularly to achieve results. I like to talk to an engaged audience who are truly interested in 'properly' looking after their skin with efficacious products & treatments. This goes beyond the brand story; reading the ingredient list and looking at the scientific evidence is essential. "I feel I am worth it and don’t hesitate to spend on myself. If women are very busy focusing on work & family, they don’t
Innovation in Skincare A review of evidence-based self-massage techniques and their physiological benefits - specific modes of massage deliver tailored effects. Working with Brands to enhance their efficacy with scientifically substantiated claims. Link to the Publication: http://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/technical/article_page/Can_massage_boost_skin_care_efficacy/122180