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How To Have Radiant Skin in Winter

By | 2018-07-12T21:21:34+00:00 January 29th, 2018|Product Reviews, Skin Concerns, Skincare Shopping, Skincare Tips|

Lightening & Brightening skincare should reflect that the skin is challenged by transition from cold outdoors to warm indoor temperature in winter.  The range of brightening skincare products is overwhelming - and reading the INCI lists essential. Traditional plant extracts have a renaissance in natural skincare. They target all aspects of skin repair such as dull appearance, sub-clinical inflammation aggravated by weather changes, patches of redness and oiliness at the same time, overall uneven skin tone. It is the combination of actives contained in the plant extracts as well as the levels of the extract used that deliver clinical results. Some of the plant staples to look for in your products are listed below: For Extra Hydration  Lupin - for skin hydration and improved barrier function Lady's Smock - rich in amino acids and helps skin recovery (re-epithelialisation) Anti-inflammatory Actives Borage - anti-inflammatory, capillary dilating compounds incl. gamma-linolenic acid Centella asiatica - alleviates fragility of capillaries and facilitates re-epithelialisation Anti-pigmentation Shiitake mushroom (contains kojic acid) - prevents melanin formation and collagen breakdown, astringent Mulberry root - brightening, tyrosinase inhibitor reduces melanin synthesis Grape (contains resveratrol) - strong antioxidant, prevents melanin formation and transfer and last but not least Licorice root used in my signature Anti-Ageing Serum '4' - brightening, tyrosinase inhibitor reduces melanin synthesis - also anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial (contains saponins, flavonoids) and

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M&S Absolute Ultimate Sleep Cream Review

By | 2018-07-12T21:28:38+00:00 January 19th, 2017|Product Reviews, Skincare Research, Skincare Shopping|

The UK skincare market is price conscious and focused on feel-good textures. At times, the 'feel' can only be achieved by adding non-natural, texture forming ingredients within the manufacturing process. There is nothing wrong with that but the feel of the product does not ensure that it contains only ingredients that benefit the skin. What the skin needs is products made by companies that prioritise the quality of ingredients above other factors [e.g. Neal's Yard Remedies], yet we must recognise that focus may lead to a compromise on the 'feel' of the product.  The secret is to blend the best quality ingredients to both optimise your skin condition and achieve great "skin feel". I would always encourage you to read the ingredient list. I want to refer back to India Knights column on Sunday [15.1.2017] musing about the M&S Absolute Ultimate Sleep Cream, £22 [50 ml]. So let's have a look together: M&S use comforting words like intuitive, luxurious, created with expertise, very best of formula.. "Part of the luxurious formula absolute skin care solutions range which features proven active ingredients to fight 10 signs of ageing. Formula skincare is created with more than 20 years of expertise with results proven by real women. Proven to tackle 10 signs of ageing, absolute offers. The very best of formula skincare. Luxurious textures designed to be layered into

4 Active: RENOVAGE™ For Cell Longevity

By | 2016-12-06T13:24:12+00:00 November 9th, 2016|FaceWorkshops, Facial Ageing, Product Reviews, Skin Concerns|

"We assess facial appearance as a whole; unconsciously adding-up visible signs of ageing. Restoring a youthful appearance means reducing the appearance of multiple parameters - lines and wrinkles, sagging [loss of tone], pigmentation, redness, dry skin, dilated pores, and the irregularities of the skin surface. All of the ageing signs are related to less efficient cell physiology; a skin composed of "ageing cells" enters the senescence phase more rapidly than necessary. It's due to a successive accumulation of DNA damage over time; less effectively repaired and less well protected DNA." Prolonging Cell Longevity. Renovage™ - geranylgeranone, is a high-tech global anti-ageing ingredient that acts on the four dimensions of skin ageing: surface, depth and time. It provides anti-ageing and protective effects against stress related damage by maintaining cell division [telomere stabilization and DNA maintenance], improving tissue quality [by optimal cell communication and rebalancing cell metabolism]. Renovage™ prolongs cell lifespan extension by one third. Clinical & Cell Culture Results. RENOVAGE™ acts as a cell facilitator and corrector. In vitro studies show several properties that aid recovery of skin function and structure to avoid premature entry into cell senescence. Protection and repair of oxidative lesions and nucleic elements  Keeping of catalasic antioxidant protection to 100% Reduction of apoptosis after UVB radiation exposure Reduction in the expression of heat shock proteins HSP27 and HSP70 The entry in senescence of fibroblasts is

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SAVE or SPEND REVIEW: Aldi Caviar Illumination Super Lift Kit

By | 2016-12-06T20:09:03+00:00 October 25th, 2016|FACEWORKSHOPS CLUB, Product Reviews|

The new Caviar Illumination Super Lift Kit contains caviar extract, soy phyto placenta extract and bio peptide - for youthful and firm looking skin. Included within the kit are four 6ml Super Lift Gel sachets, an application brush and preparation tub. RRP £12.99 We ran our last small perception study on the mask. Given the age and skin types of my participants, we tested it as a pre-party pick-me up. This was an independent study and the participants were unaware of any clinical results or packaging; they were evaluating “skin feel” after application.  Age and skin type of participants below, all Caucasian and based in Yorkshire. Skin feel, texture, sensation.. Good texture, no unpleasant sensation. Nice texture, tightened almost immediately. Texture good, only sensation is the tightening. Mask felt very light when on and comfortable. Felt a slight tightening effect when on. Felt tightening whilst it was drying. Liked the gel like texture, interesting. Felt the mask tightening on the skin as it dried. No other sensations. It wasn't especially pleasant. Very tight and then stinging in various places, noticeable around the nose. Thought the texture was very good, not too thick but not too thin. There was no sensations until the 15 mins were nearly up when it started feeling very tight in my skin. I wasn't keen

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SAVE or SPEND REVIEW: Aldi Cuvee 2016 Advent Calendar

By | 2018-01-18T16:17:43+00:00 October 10th, 2016|FaceWorkshops, FACEWORKSHOPS CLUB, Facial Ageing, Product Reviews, Skin Concerns|

We ran a small perception study on the 2016 Aldi Cuvee Royal Advent Calendar, which features 24 skincare treats for the month of December. The calendar contains a mix of 'mini-treatment ampules' for all skin types, including acne-prone and oily skin. Given the age and skin types of my participants, we tested 3 different ampules - hydrating, lifting and bi-phasic rejuvenating ampule with retinol - each for two consecutive nights.  This was an independent study and the participants were unaware of any clinical results or packaging; they were evaluating “skin feel” and ampule application only.  Age and skin type of participants below, all Caucasian and based in Yorkshire. In Summary Ampules are new to the British consumer. They work great when used seasonally, for a specific outcome. The measured-out dose is perceived as a benefit, yet it is clear the liquid formulas should be mixed with a night moisturiser [or an evening oil]. As the Aldi Calendar contains high-tech active ingredients, the actives in the night moisturiser have to be compatible with the ampules [the combination with the Aldi Cuvee moisturisers should work well]. The calendar offers a route to personalisation, however, it caters for too many different skin types at once, without detailed instructions. RRP 19.99 GBP SPEND. Ideal for combination skin types [with oily T-zone and dry U-zone] aged

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SAVE or SPEND REVIEW: Aldi Cuvee Moisturisers

By | 2016-12-06T21:14:19+00:00 September 30th, 2016|FaceWorkshops, Product Reviews, Skincare Shopping|

Skin Feel Perception Study, summer 2016 We ran a small perception study on the 2016 Cuvee moisturisers. This was an independent study [not funded by Aldi or any other 3rd party]. Please note that Aldi have independent data on improvement of skin parameters. The participants were unaware of this as well as the packaging; they were only evaluating "skin feel".  The age and skin types of my participants are below - they are a group of skincare connoisseurs - enjoying a spectrum of brands - natural, professional, medical to prestige. All based in Yorkshire, Caucasian and like a bargain too! Connotations: The Neck Mousse KS: Good connotations [with the limitation of any mass-market offering]. The British are yet to learn to use neck creams. This product might be an introduction..  The product texture is right for hydration of the neck area. Different skin types respond differently - for some too rich, for others not enough but the product absorbs well and that is important. Recommended for all skin types aged 45 +. Great gift for your mother or aunt. SPEND [FOR YOURSELF AND THE FAMILY]. I loved the neck cream, it did make a difference.  "I felt I was using something nourishing. It felt good on my skin, silky, creamy, even like an "expensive" product." I am not sure without any packaging but feel

SAVE or SPEND REVIEW: Aldi Special Buys Skincare 2016

By | 2016-12-06T21:09:22+00:00 September 27th, 2016|FaceWorkshops, Product Reviews, Skincare Shopping|

In the clinic, I favour skincare product purchases that can be a) repeated and b) returned and refunded in case of sensitisation. I also appreciate a brand portfolio which allows for creating skin-type-specific skincare routines. However, the mass-market Aldi Special Buys can be a good one-off purchase or a gift; and some will make it back to the all-time portfolio.   Me-too brands copy an existing brand, either a luxury brand e.g. La Prairie or the multinationals e.g. Nivea, L'Oreal. Aldi Special Buys generate wonderful momentum and a surge of emotion that appeals to bargain hunters - as does having a pre-order waiting lists [see Olay, Aurelia etc.], a specific launch date and a limited number of products that can be bought on the day.  Hand-picked from the NEW Launches [October 2016]: Cuvee. I am not in favour of all Aldi products, however, I believe that the Cuvee 2016 range is good for the price you are paying. We have run a small trial on the perception of the two creams within the Cuvee range - day/night moisturiser and the neck cream. They also have independent clinical data to support their claims.  Caviar Mask. My clients like the new lifting mask. It is a great pre-party pick-me up [although not for very sensitive skin types]!  Last but not least, the Christmas Calendar

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SAVE OR SPEND REVIEW: Sophisticated Skincare [without the price tag]

By | 2017-01-07T17:12:37+00:00 May 17th, 2016|Facial Ageing, Product Reviews, Skin Concerns, Skincare Shopping, Skincare Tips, Wellbeing|

I encourage my clients to aim high in terms of their skincare products. To treat themselves to NICE skin feel & scent as well as interesting & effective active ingredients, good for their skin type.. It is important to establish a pleasant skincare routine that changes with seasons; a sophisticated skincare routine – ideally without the price tag. I advise my clients to be savvy and scrutinise the commercial sites for discounts & bargains (FeelUnique, SpaceNK, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Time to Spa, even Amazon) and also visit TkMaxx, Boots, Holland&Barrett for skincare and “skin health” supplements or shop with the organic MyShowcase. Good skincare can be found in unexpected places – last year’s Aldi Caviar Peel was a great product for a fraction of the high-street price.

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Best Facial Oil For Your Skin Type

By | 2016-12-01T19:11:24+00:00 March 29th, 2016|FACEWORKSHOPS CLUB, Product Reviews, Skincare Shopping, Skincare Tips|

When looking for a facial oil, buy the best for your skin type. Pure plant oils differ in how they feel on your facial skin; dependent on your skin type. Read through the participants' comments on texture, scent and colour [the FaceWorkshops trial run in March 2016].  *** Jojoba oil (Nr 1) Dry/Dehydrated  Light and very well absorbed -  No scent noticeable - Pale  The product absorbed well and I like the texture - I couldn't pick up a fragrance on this, other than a natural oil type aroma - I like the colour. Texture good, felt quite rich - Could not smell any fragrance - Colour good Sensitive  Very good as it gave enough slide to the skin but did not leave it feeling oily - Not noticeable - Fine Absorbs very well, skin felt silky and smooth - I couldn't decide the scent but it was gentle and calming - Colour was fine, light Normal/Combination  Absorbed ok - scent was bit chemical - pale colour Light texture - No scent - Liked colour *** Rose hip seed oil (Nr 2) Dry/Dehydrated   Slightly heavier than Nr.1, easily absorbed but thinner than Nr.1 - No noticeable scent - Slightly darker in colour As Nr.1 - Couldn't pick up a fragrance on this other than a

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New vs. Innovative Skincare

By | 2016-12-07T10:23:53+00:00 November 17th, 2015|Product Reviews, Skincare Shopping, Skincare Tips|

Launching new or innovative skincare products? The beauty market is saturated, yet in perpetual need of NEW products (35 % of purchases annually) that are not always scientifically relevant or innovative.. PACKAGING. Creating value in the eyes of the consumer often stems from packaging - at least for people that don't have difficult-to-treat skin types or too many ageing concerns. CONVENIENCE. Mobile purchases are becoming more popular than  desktop and Google favours e-commerce sites that are mobile friendly. The online journey and feeling welcome on the site - as well as product reviews are becoming extremely important. After all, the beauty industry is about talking to people.. Packaging needs to appeal, be simple and fit for purpose - but at the end of the day, it is only the outer shell of the product. SKIN BIOLOGY, LIFESTYLE & COMPLIANCE. Buying skincare differs from other beauty purchases. Your skin type is unique and the factors that influence you individually depend on genetics and lifestyle - efficacy, the right choice of active ingredients and sensory aspects of skincare products come first! The price, quality, size and prestige attributes are secondary. Go shopping when: you understand your skin type and active ingredients that alleviate your concerns know how to layer your products know how your skin changes during the day and seasons appreciate how does it

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