Innovation in Skincare A review of evidence-based self-massage techniques and their physiological benefits - specific modes of massage deliver tailored effects. Working with Brands to enhance their efficacy with scientifically substantiated claims. Link to the Publication: http://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/technical/article_page/Can_massage_boost_skin_care_efficacy/122180
Skin Feel Perception Study, summer 2016 We ran a small perception study on the 2016 Cuvee moisturisers. This was an independent study [not funded by Aldi or any other 3rd party]. Please note that Aldi have independent data on improvement of skin parameters. The participants were unaware of this as well as the packaging; they were only evaluating "skin feel". The age and skin types of my participants are below - they are a group of skincare connoisseurs - enjoying a spectrum of brands - natural, professional, medical to prestige. All based in Yorkshire, Caucasian and like a bargain too! Connotations: The Neck Mousse KS: Good connotations [with the limitation of any mass-market offering]. The British are yet to learn to use neck creams. This product might be an introduction.. The product texture is right for hydration of the neck area. Different skin types respond differently - for some too rich, for others not enough but the product absorbs well and that is important. Recommended for all skin types aged 45 +. Great gift for your mother or aunt. SPEND [FOR YOURSELF AND THE FAMILY]. I loved the neck cream, it did make a difference. "I felt I was using something nourishing. It felt good on my skin, silky, creamy, even like an "expensive" product." I am not sure without any packaging but feel
In the clinic, I favour skincare product purchases that can be a) repeated and b) returned and refunded in case of sensitisation. I also appreciate a brand portfolio which allows for creating skin-type-specific skincare routines. However, the mass-market Aldi Special Buys can be a good one-off purchase or a gift; and some will make it back to the all-time portfolio. Me-too brands copy an existing brand, either a luxury brand e.g. La Prairie or the multinationals e.g. Nivea, L'Oreal. Aldi Special Buys generate wonderful momentum and a surge of emotion that appeals to bargain hunters - as does having a pre-order waiting lists [see Olay, Aurelia etc.], a specific launch date and a limited number of products that can be bought on the day. Hand-picked from the NEW Launches [October 2016]: Cuvee. I am not in favour of all Aldi products, however, I believe that the Cuvee 2016 range is good for the price you are paying. We have run a small trial on the perception of the two creams within the Cuvee range - day/night moisturiser and the neck cream. They also have independent clinical data to support their claims. Caviar Mask. My clients like the new lifting mask. It is a great pre-party pick-me up [although not for very sensitive skin types]! Last but not least, the Christmas Calendar
Market research experts ask frequently "What sensations do consumers look for in a moisturiser and why?".. What "feels good" to a consumer is driven by biology. Skin feel of a moisturiser depends on skin type - yet skin type is subjective to a consumer. Oily skin types find most moisturisers to "feel heavy or sticky", whilst mature and dry skin types cannot "find rich enough" moisturiser on the market. Sebum production seems to define the dry to oily spectrum at large - yet point-of-care sebum quantification & profiling have not been given enough of attention to date. Sebum, hydration and skin barrier function differ, depending on ethnic group and age. It is both the amount of sebum as well as its content that affect skin condition [and facilitate skin feel]. US AFRICAN AMERICANS. African American women produce more sebum than Caucasian women. When looking at the sebum profile, wax esters are the class of lipids significantly higher in African American women [non polar, long, highly hydrophobic molecules that act as a barrier against excessive hydration or dehydration]. This correlates with better skin hydration, barrier function and probably also "oilier skin feel" in this ethnic group. BRITISH CAUCASIANS. Sebum has a moisturizing or conditioning effect on any skin type. In general, oilier skin types seem to have better skin barrier
One thousand French women took part in the beauty survey - let's look at their views on attitudes toward beauty and ageing (perceptions of internal and external age) and concerns about skin ageing and “preventative” measures employed (lifestyle choices and skin care). The research shows that the majority of women become aware of facial ageing in their mid-30s, when fine lines appear and they feel looking tired. This survey captures the views of French women - it would be interesting to identify cultural variations in Britain. Attitudes towards beauty. Younger faces are considered to be more attractive than older faces - with older female faces being the least appealing. Skin condition - in particular colour and texture - is an important indicator of youth, health, and physical attractiveness. The peak of beauty was judged at an average age of 36 years. Nevertheless, 92% also thought it was possible to grow old “beautifully” - the main factors for facial beauty were a natural look, self-confidence, and attractive skin. Nearly 80% of women feel younger, and believe themselves to look younger, than their true age. As women reach their mid-30s, a gap starts to develop between the age they feel inside [internal age] and the age reflected by their faces [external age] - even though they
Specific anti-ageing technologies should be targeting different facial zones and ageing features. Technologies on my wish list are new, clinically relevant and evidence-based yet accessible (distribution channel and price) for my clients. The appearance of facial skin depends on the quality of many different tissues - bone structure, muscles, sub-dermal deposits of fat, dermal and epidermal layers as well as perfusion and lymphatic drainage - that differ in distinct facial zones. In Caucasians, research into which ageing signs matter most has confirmed that nine features correlate the most with perceived age (Oriflame research in Russian women aged 40 +): wrinkles in the upper part of the face (crow's feet, glabellar (frown), under-eye and forehead wrinkles) wrinkles in the lower half of the face (upper lip, nasolabial fold) sagging of the jawline (in the aged 41 to 65 years) severity of hyper pigmented spots - red and brown (although to a lesser extent) Anti-ageing solutions specifically targeting these features have to entail: lifestyle changes (bad mimic habits - impacting on frown and lip lines, smoking - lip lines & skin quality e.g. acne, inadequate sleep and nutrition - sleep lines & skin quality e.g. tired, dull complexion ) daily facial yoga, self-massage and regular professional face massage with or without rollers (for increased perfusion and lymphatic drainage, alignment,
People’s faces interest me – they convey so much about our nature, feelings and life experiences! The nostalgic weather in mid November always reminds me of the days, when the Berlin Wall came down and the Velvet Revolution took place. I was at my first year at University studying biochemistry. Born in a small town in southern Bohemia, biology and plants in skincare always fascinated me and, like any girl at that age, I wanted to have a clear, glowing skin. The Czechs have a strong tradition of herbal remedies and spa therapy – not many people know that the London facialist, Eve Lom, as well as the “10 Years Younger” Channel 4 celebrity surgeon, Jan Stanek, are also Czech. In my second year of University, the government opened a new route to professional qualification for people who had A-levels, so I qualified as a Beauty Therapist. I loved it and had about 20 clients till I graduated in 1994. My MSc was in self-tanning of the skin and had fun experimenting with facial self-tan. During my studies, I was fortunate enough to work for Shiseido in Japan and later for La Prairie in Switzerland. I found travelling the world amazing! The Asian cultures place a great emphasis on skincare and youth – my stay in Japan in particular was
Individual needs. Everyone has a different skin type - a result of nature (genes) and nurture (lifestyle and skincare) and it is important to match the skin type to the right products. There is no brand on the market to address all skin types. The Right Choice. Product choice should be based on objective scientific evidence but also on individual preferences. It is about the active ingredients but also about how light/rich a formulation feels and how well the skin absorbs it. The richness is, to a degree, subjective and so is a fragrance. Some people love and some hate lavender or geranium! We are appealing to niche skincare brands to send us their samples. It is easy to have a great skin with a big budget but we are trying to highlight the best products on the market below £50! We would like to tease out what is the best about each brand and give our clients a choice beyond skincare available in Yorkshire. We are looking to introduce Slow Skincare movement that values biodynamic, organic or sustainable approach, where appropriate. However, pharmaceutical ingredients have an unequivocal role in anti-ageing and treating acne prone and sometimes even sensitive skin types.
Being an insider allows me to comment on the technology used in skincare: not many people understand that Lancome is a L’Oreal brand and sharing technologies across the board within one company is to be expected. Genifique £55/30ml vs. L’Oréal Youth Code £17.19/30 ml FaceWorkshops Recommendation: SAVE £37 (but only if you like more fragranced skincare). – Both products contain Biolysat, an anti-ageing ingredient, beneficial for facial skin. There is some scientific evidence for Biolysat, Adenosine, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine – albeit coming from L’Oreal and Degussa but published in peer reviewed journals. The main ingredients improve inflammation and skin sensitivity, however, the high level of alcohol is not ideal for sensitive skin types. AESTHETICS: As always with prestige skincare, the aesthetics of Genifique is more refined and there is less perfume than in the Youth Code. EFFICACY: Genifique contains more of Hyaluronic acid (temporary plumping effect through hydration) and Adenosine, less Salicyloyl phytosphingosine and no Peptides. The products have similar efficacy – save your money and buy the Youth Code if happy with the stronger perfume! Personally, I like the Genifique texture more with more hyaluronic acid and no peptides. Read more about both products..
My recommendations for women with pre-menstrual acne have been published in the June issue of the US Allure magazine. About 4 in 10 women in their 40's still experience spots on the chin prior to their period. They feel unattractive, particularly in the work environment and when dating. Please share this with your family & friends who still suffer with pre-menstrual acne! For more information please email firstname.lastname@example.org. The Allure Magazine Link http://www.allure.com/beauty-trends/health/2011/facials-and-acne