Facial Appearance & Ageing. Understanding the facts & figures of facial ageing is an incentive for us, the professionals, to change our clinical practice and become more integrative. Complex Process Linked to Life Stages. The process of skin ageing is multifactorial, as structural, functional and aesthetic changes happen at a variable rate. It is misleading to consider skin ageing as a uniform biological event; several distinct biological processes may occur concurrently. There are five types of skin aging, including: intrinsic, extrinsic, lifestyle, hormonal or catabolic. Olay have identified distinct gene expression “tipping points” that occur in each decade as we age: Decline in antioxidant response (20s) Decline in skin bioenergy (30s) Increase in cellular senescence (40s) Decline in skin barrier function (50s) Acceleration of all the above (60s) Mirror, Mirror. The focus of attention in the face is on the eyes, lips and facial symmetry [jawline and cheek sagging]. The “quantified-self trend” is growing in an “on-display” digital world. The most significant period of change is in the 40s! Wrinkles on the left side of the face have a deeper profile and higher volume in comparison with those on the right side and sleeping can further impact on the wrinkle patterns. Health & Lifestyle. Lifestyle changes are essential; a healthy lifestyle is necessary for youthful appearance. Smoking, sunbathing, sunbed use, a low body
My clinical experience with supplements to improve skin health is empirical. I work in an affluent area of East Yorkshire, yet the number of my clients that are: a) dedicated enough to adjust their lifestyle and food choices and b) able to invest in a skin supplement are limited. They get results when compliant. Having reviewed the impact of diet on acne (link to the publication), I strongly believe diet has an impact on inflammatory skin conditions - and clinically I see an improvement when my clients stick to these dietary recommendations every day. In terms of supplements, I used to recommend Oenobiol Pure Skin (no longer available) and any probiotics with diverse bacterial species, however, Symprove has proven to work best for my clients. Symprove is a water-based multi-strain supplement that contains 4 unique strains of live activated bacteria, they have trialled the supplement at UCL. The strains include: L. rhamnosus, E. faecium, L. acidophilus, and L. plantarum. Normally a healthy gut would already contain all four of these, however when it doesn’t, it can soon become unbalanced. In my view, the gut in inflammatory skin conditions is unbalanced. My hypothesis agrees with Whitney P Bowe, et al. Gut Pathog. 2011;3:1-1. Psychological stress alone [or in combination with high fat diet and/or processed comfort foods devoid of fiber] cause alterations to
One thousand French women took part in the beauty survey - let's look at their views on attitudes toward beauty and ageing (perceptions of internal and external age) and concerns about skin ageing and “preventative” measures employed (lifestyle choices and skin care). The research shows that the majority of women become aware of facial ageing in their mid-30s, when fine lines appear and they feel looking tired. This survey captures the views of French women - it would be interesting to identify cultural variations in Britain. Attitudes towards beauty. Younger faces are considered to be more attractive than older faces - with older female faces being the least appealing. Skin condition - in particular colour and texture - is an important indicator of youth, health, and physical attractiveness. The peak of beauty was judged at an average age of 36 years. Nevertheless, 92% also thought it was possible to grow old “beautifully” - the main factors for facial beauty were a natural look, self-confidence, and attractive skin. Nearly 80% of women feel younger, and believe themselves to look younger, than their true age. As women reach their mid-30s, a gap starts to develop between the age they feel inside [internal age] and the age reflected by their faces [external age] - even though they
My recent column in Cosmetics & Toiletries looks into skin diagnostics and the way we judge the efficacy of our skincare products at home. Living in the digital world of self-scrutiny - and “on-display” - through social media further fuels consumers’ expectations. Smart beauty devices are becoming reality as the “quantified-self trend” grows with the number of sensors available to monitor our body vital signs. Are you using any of the at-home diagnostic devices or online apps that can assess your skin status and/or track the progression of your skin concerns over time?
Face&Body Expo, Chicago March 12 - 14, 2016. One of the best beauty shows I have experienced - informative presentations, best examples of "organic" and "active" skincare brands. I have a talk on the benefits of professional facial massage that has been recorded and I will share it with you soon. The talks I enjoyed most as relevant to my clinical practice were given by: Dr Erin Madigan-Fleck on naturopathic treatment of protein deficiency and how it impacts on ageing skin (Atlanta, Georgia). An important issue to discuss with my vegetarian clients! Dr Mark Lees's approach to acne care (Florida) - similar principles to my practice, using more of alpha/beta hydroxy acids and considering diet a little less than I do.. Great review of current beauty&spa trends by IDI Dermalogica trainer Annet King (Los Angeles) Practical showcasing of Janel Luu's introduction into her Asian lymphatic drainage on 10 pressure points technique with dark jade stone Eminence Skincare intensive physio-based massage skills & showmanship Large portfolio of all natural products (you can see the coarse structure of ingredients), traditional Hungarian line Eminence Organics, not for sensitive skin types in my view! The hard physio-based massage is what makes the difference! Their amusing shows (imagine balloons, Minion rucksacks, comedy) are very popular. Interesting brand by Dr Pugliese. As their representative
A good analogy for the holistic approach I advocate for the face - personalised skincare routine, professional treatments and at-home facial exercise - is exercising the body. If we want to tone up and achieve a better silhouette, we have a choice of a) an instant tummy tuck or b) to engage in a bespoke exercise regime. The later requires more effort and personal commitment, and the results are delivered slowly in comparison to the former. I have been witness to the adverse side effects of Botox, fillers and facial fat transfer making me firmly believe that the holistic approach is a health-affirming, if longer-term path, to inner beauty. When looking at the psychology of appearance, I refer to Dr Eileen Bradbury who said that undergoing cosmetic procedures often exposes us to a judgement of being vain; we receive little sympathy from our peers. Yet, we all strive to look attractive and struggle with ageing (see my survey). Attractiveness is important in all walks of life - symmetry and evenness of facial skin and features signal our health. Yet, we often don't see each other in movement, or when smiling, only static in the mirror. There is something disturbing about asymmetry - and as we age these asymmetries become more exaggerated. For example, sleeping on one side can contribute to more lines and a slightly 'squashed'
The American Beauty - Attitude to Skincare Seeking perfection or looking after their appearance as best they can. It is about society pressure and money. Or is it? Funding - Private insurance in the US usually includes dermatology. And that certainly helps in finding time and motivation for your monthly facial massage and peel, even if a small co-payment is required. Looking good = Being successful - Everybody around you looks after their skin (and teeth). American skincare staples, like Neutrogena and Origins, are popular, as is the daily exfoliating facial wash. Diligence counts. Looking good is important - it is a part of the self-made American dream. Ingrained since childhood American good skincare habits start early - teenagers with acne often feel self-conscious. Media, eg. the Dash magazine, target girls in their early teens and make them think seriously about their skin and skincare. Many thanks to CMR for an interesting discussion about the importance of skincare across the Atlantic.
French LVMH Research published an article in the Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2008, looking at the role of make-up in our lives. Make-up application stimulates three of our senses: touch (application) smell (fragrance) sight (the process of becoming and looking beautiful). The positive stimulation of these senses can induce sensory as well as psychological pleasure. The researchers interviewed different groups of women on their quality of life and make-up habits (using standardised and validated psychometric tests) to see the link between the need to apply make-up and specific psychological features. The results show that make-up application has two opposite functions - Camouflage and Seduction. Women of the Camouflage group are more anxious, defensive and emotionally unstable compared to those of the Seduction group who appear to be more sociable, assertive and extroverted. The study confirms that beyond the simple application of "colour" on the face, make-up has two functional implications depending on specific psychological profiles of women. Why do you use make-up? What personality type do you consider yourself to be?
“People believe that old age starts at 54 and youth ends at 32. The Government calls for reappraisal of attitudes towards age, given Britain’s rapidly ageing population.” A survey by the Department for Work and Pensions How To Age Well "If I feel good, I am more confident and function better. I've learnt to love what I have. I’ve learned that as I age, less is definitely more. I decided never to change my face and embrace how I age. You have to do it with joie de vivre." "The great news about ageing is that you’re living and that you have had a full life and have wonderful memories. The sad thing is that you have less time ahead of you. Every day that goes by I look a little less good - that is the truth. My advice to women is: Don’t hide your age, either by saying you are younger than you are or hiding it by erasing features in your face. It is all about acceptance. Embrace who you are as soon as possible when you are young. Like yourself. Have a discipline. Try to be alert - have your body follow you, have your mind follow you. Embrace where you are at in life, every age
In any culture, beauty has been about perfection but concepts of what constitutes "perfection" have changed over the centuries. As the population ages, it could well be that concepts of beauty will shift. We live at a time of great variety of age, gender, style, background, culture and attitude and contemplating beauty brings pleasure to each of us yet it comes in all shapes, colours and sizes. Chic, Autentic and Natural "Being an English person, and having lived in France for 40 years, I am not as nicely turned out as the French but I don’t care like the English." Jane Birkin “I never put my face in the sun. I am determined not to go the way of my contemporaries and get surgery. I have a lot of facials and take scrupulous care of my skin.” Joane Collins OBE "Self image is a complicated thing. I campaign against cosmetic surgery because it a grave act in which you don’t necessarily foresee all the consequences. The people who have it are lacking in confidence." Emmanuelle Beart, French acress by Matthew Campbell for Sunday times. “The more healthily you live, the better you look. We still want to look like ourselves when we grow older. We lose our sensuality when we have surgery,