Personalisation in skincare is essential. As a clinician, I treat people from all walks of life – different ages, skin types and concerns – on a daily basis. There is a range of skin types but also motivation, compliance and budget amongst my clients. My role is to help them make an informed choice, to diagnose their skin type and make a product as well as lifestyle recommendations. The majority come back on a monthly basis and incorporate my recommendations into their routines at home. Skincare is a journey. I am honest with my clients in discussing what can and cannot be achieved in a month, a season or a year. Prevention is best for healthy, glowing and youthful skin. The younger generation are interested in health and prevention of premature ageing; in the older generation many people only address a concern once it becomes visible. Every face has individual facial structures that relate to the skin as well as the skeleton, facial muscles and the vascular and lymphatic systems. The facial tissues represent a dynamic system, influenced by health and lifestyle, responding to daily and monthly rhythms and ageing. The skincare industry approaches customisation on a macro level (skin type and concern, age groups) or micro-level (gene-analysis based skincare) but in the absence of large personal spending, clinically relevant solutions lie in understanding of individuals’ facial
Merck, as a large personal care ingredients manufacturer, aim to be at the forefront of innovation, debating scientific topics that are relevant and on trend. Their annual forum brings together primarily scientists from the German-speaking world carrying out research in microbiome, pollution and, in my case, touch. It is a privilege to be invited to Darmstadt, Germany, this Wednesday, to share my clinical expertise in a talk about “The Science of Massage for Different Skin Types”. We understand that sensory properties of skincare products – the texture, scent and skin feel – enhance the perceived wellbeing that results from their use. When developing new products, it is therefore important to understand how an individual’s skin type, age and ethnicity can affect their experience. Different application touch techniques can impact skin biology in different ways and this is where the science of massage is relevant. For example, the slow and deep techniques relax the brain, bring in more blood flow and stretch the collagen, producing dermal fibroblasts, collagen-making cells that get less active with ageing which leads to skin thinning, more wrinkles and sagging. By contrast, the light touch techniques refresh and drain the superficial lymphatic system, something which our bodies do less effectively as we get older, causing puffiness and sagging. Evidence-based
A new book about ageing well from my favourite writer, Tish Jett, has been published in New York by Rizzoli International Publications. Tish writes beautifully about the Frenchwomen's art of living well, incorporating good habits and little luxuries into their day-to-day routine. Their secrets for lifelong style starts with personal discipline and belief in quality in all things, every day. Discipline goes hand in hand with beauty - quick fixes have a trade-off. Giving time to beauty rituals is essential, as is being smart with your skincare expenditure. Tish writes, 'With each passing birthday, I realise that one of the most important goals in my life is serenity." The bathroom cabinet is a sanctuary for our beauty, health and mental wellbeing. Curated and personalised for you, the November beauty bargains might be tempting but go shopping with a well-thought through rationale. The benefit of the dark nights & fireworks season is to go from the outside in; to reflect, re-work and reconsider how the year has gone and where to go from here. The same goes for our wellbeing rituals. Are they designed to regenerate us for our lives to run smoothly, beautifully and effortlessly as in France or are they an ad-hoc bargain decision? Ageing well is not only the theme of my work; at the
Online shopping driven by trends and recommendations does not always translate to the desired beautiful, clear and youthful looking skin. Skincare routines have to be personalised, particularly for the sensitive and blemish prone skin types. The Asian trends of Korean and Japanese beauty do offer a solution for these skin types - but the dosage, application and underlying skin biology are often too complex for people to make the right purchasing decisions. The European approach to beauty is more at leisure compared to our Asian counterparts. ppearance matters culturally; it reflects health, attractiveness and vitality-driven approach to life. The K-beauty (Korean beauty) regimens involve a series of steps: cleansing rituals with both oil and water-based products, sheet masks, essences, serums, lotions and high SPF sunscreens. Asian women in eastern cultures are known for eagerly embracing new skin care products and diligently performing complex routines. K-beauty appears to deliver its full benefits when embraced in its entirety, which, due to time constraints and a more ad-hoc approach to skincare, rarely happens in Britain. Japanese beauty is simpler, addressing better the clinical needs of sensitive and oily skin. These hand-picked products of Korean, Japanese and French provenance work well for sensitive skin with environmental, hormonal and lifestyle challenges. Writing a regular column for the
The under eye zone is one of the most delicate areas of the face. The skin is very thin, prone to lines and wrinkles, dark circles and pigmentation, eye bags and swelling. A number of factors contribute to these concerns of my clients, including genetics, lifestyle choices, lack of or low quality sleep and stress. Facial ageing is very individual. Different areas of the face age at different rates and our perception of age-related changes can impact on perceived age, attractiveness and tiredness. In the frontal view, the middle third of the face has the greatest effect on perception of age as it contains the eyes, nose, crow's feet, frown lines and under eye area. The appearance of eye bags improves over the course of the day, compared to morning. Frown lines, in contrast, worsen. Swelling occurs in the morning due to the effects of gravity during sleep. Repeated movements of the face in facial expressions increases transient wrinkle formation from the morning to the afternoon. Gravity and movement are likely to reduce swelling in the face during the day. The eyelid skin is distinct from others, with low skin surface lipids - skin's natural fats - and a thin stratum corneum, the upper layer of the skin with high hydration but
Learn personalised Facial Yoga for lifting and relaxation (60 minutes) Individual session £40 Group of 3 people £15 each You will learn how your unconscious feelings are displayed in the face and why facial muscles become stiff and the face freezes into a permanent expression. At the end of the party, you will be able to focus on specific zones, releasing tension by easy-to-do moves and stimulate your facial points to work deeper on your feelings. You will be able to relax your face by massage, breathing and meditation. Read more about Facial Yoga here.
In preparation for my talk on touch at the Anti-Ageing Conference in London, I am looking at evidence for facial massage. Massage appears to inﬂuence the entire face and this may be one reason why visual evaluation is difﬁcult. The combination of 3D-CT analysis (enables us to recognize anatomical changes in the subcutaneous structures of the face) and visual assessment helps to evaluate the effects of facial massage in detail. The nasolabial folds are groove-like structures running outside of the nasal alae and the corners of the mouth. They are easy to evaluate visually. The adipose tissue out-side of the nasolabial folds is thick and forms the shape of the cheek. Facial massage method: Using cosmetic cream as a lubricant, facial skin and muscles were massaged relaxing the muscles and promoting blood and lymph ﬂow. The massage procedure (5 min long, repeated twice): 1) kneading the entire facial muscles with a ﬁnger tip, 2) upward rubbing from the bottom to top of the face with a whole finger (from jaw line, to cheek, forehead, and eyes) 3) rubbing from the bottom to the top of the face with all four ﬁngers RESULTS: Facial massage caused morphological changes at multiple locations on the face: a) the subcutaneous soft tissue around the jaw tightened, soft tissues moved upwards at sites around the jaw b) the thickness of fat tissue at the nasal
My interview with The EcoWell in Canada on skin biology and skin ageing. Enjoy! In this episode, we covered skin biology, including the structure of your skin as it relates to cosmetics, skin conditions like acne, the ageing process of your skin, and lots more. Listen to the podcast here.
New Year's Resolutions? Approach your skin with a long-term view in 2018. Understand trade-offs of your chosen therapies. Small step by step changes bring significant improvement in the long-term - focus on skin health, facial movement and skin texture & radiance. Happy and healthy 2018!
"I’m very proud to have reached the final of the Pure Beauty Awards with my 4 Anti-Ageing Serum. I’m competing against big budget international skincare brands.” I am delighted that my signature serum has been shortlisted for the Pure Beauty Awards this year. The Pure Beauty Awards are considered a highlight in the beauty industry calendar and the annual awards event attracts key industry professionals and leading UK retailers. The category "Best New Skin Care Treatment" reflects all I stand for - my passion for scientifically proven ingredients, great skin-feel and scent - and last but not least, an evidence-based targeted application. I am based in Yorkshire yet as a skin scientist and facialist, I pride myself in being innovative and unique in my approach to products and treatments. My first serum, designed for vertical lines and wrinkles, is the result of over 20 years of my scientific research, clinical expertise and own personal skincare journey. I have had fantastic reviews from my clients who enjoy using my signature product. The fact that the first skincare product I have developed has been acknowledged by the judges is a true commendation. If you like my work and would like me to win, please vote for me here. The voting runs from 5th until 26th September. Thank you! To make it interesting, I will bring