/Skincare Research

Sun Protection: Applying Enough?

By |2016-12-07T09:16:42+00:00July 31st, 2011|Facial Ageing, Skin Concerns, Skincare Research, Sun Care|

Government recommendation that sunscreens with an SPF of 15 are sufficient to prevent sunburn - and the subsequent potential cancer risk -  is based on standard test conditions, not on how much the public use on their skin in reality! During the testing, manufacturers apply 2 mg/cm2 of the sunscreen to the skin but in real life people usually apply much less, only around a quarter to half of this amount (0.5 - 1 mg/cm2) and reduce the protection indicated by the labelled SPF. Therefore, a sunscreen with a high SPF such as 50 will only give an SPF of between 3 and 19. To meet the government recommendation, an adult would need to use 35ml of sunscreen (SPF15) per application. If reapplied every two hours, as is also recommended, a standard 200ml bottle would be used up in two to three days. This is impractical and expensive. Sunscreens carry the ‘Boots star rating system’, which indicates the ratio of UVA and UVB protection. As discussed in a previous blog, the SPF refers to the amount of UVB protection offered and the stars indicate UVA protection; more stars, more UVA protection. UVA makes up more than 95 per cent of UV radiation and contributes to ageing, UVB is the main cause of

US Allure magazine published my research on pre-menstrual acne..

By |2016-12-07T09:29:02+00:00June 28th, 2011|FaceWorkshops, In the Media, Skincare Research|

My recommendations for women with pre-menstrual acne have been published in the June issue of the US Allure magazine. About 4 in 10 women in their 40's still experience spots on the chin prior to their period. They feel unattractive, particularly in the work environment and when dating. Please share this with your family & friends who still suffer with pre-menstrual acne! For more information please email info@faceworkshops.com. The Allure Magazine Link http://www.allure.com/beauty-trends/health/2011/facials-and-acne

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Multi-tasking Moisturisers: Meeting Consumers’ Needs?

By |2016-12-07T09:39:19+00:00June 28th, 2011|FaceWorkshops, In the Media, Skincare Research, Skincare Tips, Society of Cosmetic Scientists|

I was invited to give a talk on facial skincare to the skincare industry last week and when preparing for the talk I came across a few insights that are worth sharing: Understand the importance of Night Care. Although more than 8 in 10 British women use face creams daily, only 3 in 10 apply a night cream every night. As this is something I come across also in my private consultations, I would like to encourage you to use an appropriate night care if you want to see results! Invest In Your Face. Modern skincare is effective - a good routine can deliver benefits comparable to the benchmark dermatologist treatment. The Brits spend about half on facial skincare compared to the French and yet they feel "they spend lots of money".  Learn to enjoy using your skincare products and make them a pleasant part of your daily life. Slow Down. Long working hours in Britain and the fact that 3 in 10 women are losing weight have an impact on premature lines and wrinkles. Fast paced lifestyle and quick-fix solutions are not beneficial for your face in the long-term. Synopsis - Multi-tasking Moisturisers: Meeting Consumers' Needs? Skin concerns change during our lives and factors including age, health, hormonal influences, lifestyle and

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Are You Ageing Well?

By |2016-12-07T09:08:01+00:00June 2nd, 2010|Facial Ageing, Skincare Research|

We all want to look good for our age but we age at a different rate! French research shows that women of the same age living in the Paris area (with relatively homogeneous genetics and lifestyle) can look 10 years younger or 10 years older for their age. Skin type and avoiding extreme lifestyle behaviours (suntanning, diet and smoking) explain only 10 % of this variation! It is the more subtle genetic and lifestyle factors e.g. stress as well as our skincare routines that are of greater importance in terms of how well we age. Source: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12437451

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Ageing in the Sun

By |2016-12-07T08:33:53+00:00May 26th, 2010|Skincare Research, Sun Care|

Sun is the dominant factor in the onset of premature ageing! Had we always protected our faces, the way Japanese women often do, our skin would age in a different, subtle way. Ageing with sun protection Our aged face would have a smooth and even surface with only few fine wrinkles. We would be able to distinquish some loss of elasticity (due to thickenned, disoriented bundles) and thinning (atrophy) but no signs of inflammation and only a moderate decrease in perfusion giving our facial skin slightly drawn, pale appearance. The upper skin layer, epidermis, would be still working well in comparison to photo-aged skin. Ageing in the sun (photo-ageing) If we have suntanned all our life, our facial skin will have an uneven (bumpy) surface and sallow, yellowish tone with mottled pigmentation (sun spots). We will see coarse wrinkles and a severe loss of elasticity (due to the thickening of dermis and increase in elastotic amorphous mass, less structural fibres and underlying inflammation). Also the capillaries become prominent on the skin surface (teleangiectasia) contributing to the uneven skin colour. Epidermal changes - and the risk of skin cancer - are also profound. If like me you would rather your face aged in a subtle way, protect your face during the summer. Source: http://tinyurl.com/32w7exe ***

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Face & Emotions: The Connection

By |2016-12-07T08:43:37+00:00May 4th, 2010|Facial Ageing, Facial Massage, Skin Concerns, Skincare Research, Wellbeing|

The appearance of our face is directly related to the way we feel. Our face captures and stores daily fatigue, upset and emotions that we project outwardly in the way that we look.  Research shows that frowning can make us unhappier and treatments that prevent frowning correlate with reduced negative mood. Although Botox - currently a suggested treatment for depression - paralyses the frown muscles and limits facial expression of negative emotions that may consequently introduce a more positive mood, this action may not be always desirable in a social contact. Our emotions are controlled by our facial expressions: recent imaging studies have shown that imitation of facial expressions is associated with brain activity. Botox of frown muscles limits angry facial expressions and thus enables us to give a false signal. Given that people tend to mimic the emotional expressions of others, this may impact on the trust in the relationship. Facial massage is a great alternative to Botox. It increases circulation and lymphatic drainage; it also impacts on skin turnover and collagen production by fibroblasts. It is an essential therapy not only for the face but also for our wellbeing. Relaxation, a learned response, in a healing and meditative atmosphere during the treatment, significantly enhances both the immediate and visible benefit of facial massage that entails reduced appearance of lines, wrinkles and sagging due to lifting, plumping up

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Next – After the Boots Serum?

By |2016-11-28T12:25:27+00:00February 15th, 2010|Product Reviews, Skincare Research, Skincare Shopping|

As discussed in my previous blog, Boots had an unprecedented commercial success in Britain in the past few years.  The Boots Protect & Perfect serum case gave clear evidence to the skincare industry that a little science could do a lot more for sales than any amount of expensive glossy advertising! The latest attempt to promote a skincare product through serious scientific scrutiny, this time by Procter & Gamble, hopes to emulate the success of Boots and provide us with a proof of superior efficacy! This month the British Journal of Dermatology will publish a scientific study showing that an anti-ageing cream, Olay Pro-X, is as efficacious at reducing wrinkles as a prescription-only treatment. In the study, 99 women who applied the Olay product several times a day for six months were compared to other 97 women receiving prescription-only retinoid treatment with well-known efficacy. Wrinkle reduction was assessed by grading on high-resolution digital images at eight and 24 weeks into the trial and showed that an appropriately designed cosmetic regimen can improve facial wrinkle appearance comparably with the benchmark prescription treatment and without its side effects. P&G plans to launch Olay Pro-X in Britain next year! And the active ingredients look great - more about them in my next blog. Source: http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/beauty/article7026342.ece

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Facial Expressions Lead to Permanent Wrinkles at 40

By |2016-12-07T08:22:48+00:00February 10th, 2010|Facial Yoga, Skincare Research, Skincare Tips|

From Temporary Lines to Permanent Wrinkles Wrinkles develop progressively through our lives. When young, we only see temporary lines when making a facial expression. Later in life, lines and wrinkles become visible permanently. It is the mechanical stress caused by repeated facial expressions along the same skin groove that makes temporary lines become permanent wrinkles. The most significant period of change is in the 40s!  Light skin tone and low hydration make our skin more prone to wrinkling. Also a low intake of water and a belief that tanned skin is healthy looking skin will contribute. A Tipping Point Research presented at the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) in San Francisco shows that skin elasticity and resilience has a tipping point at about 35 years of age. Compressing the skin of a 20-year old and that of a 40-year old skin with the same amout of stress and force - a skin compression imaging device - shows a big difference in the ability of the skin to withstand pressure. In a study of 100 women aged 25 - 55, skin power gradually declined through their 20's and early 30s but dropped precipitously at their mid thirties. This is due to collagen and elastin, skin's two main structural components, being damaged by oxidation (UV rays, pollution and intrinsic stress).

Longer Lashes – The Scientific Breakthrough of 2009!

By |2016-12-06T21:57:34+00:00December 12th, 2009|Skincare Research, Skincare Shopping|

Women may soon be able to stop relying on mascara. Biologists at L'Oreal's research laboratories in Paris have spent the last three years studying eyelashes and have now developed a gel that they claim extends the length of time individual eyelashes grow for before they fall out. This apparently leads to longer, thicker eyelashes. L'Oreal plans to market the gel as an over-the-counter cosmetic. Source: http://uk.yearinreview.yahoo.com/2009/blog/7  

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