//Skin Sensation & Sebum Profiling

Skin Sensation & Sebum Profiling

Market research experts ask frequently “What sensations do consumers look for in a moisturiser and why?”..

What “feels good” to a consumer is driven by biology. Skin feel of a moisturiser depends on skin type – yet skin type is subjective to a consumer. Oily skin types find most moisturisers to “feel heavy or sticky”, whilst mature and dry skin types cannot “find rich enough” moisturiser on the market.

Sebum production seems to define the dry to oily spectrum at large – yet point-of-care sebum quantification & profiling have not been given enough of attention to date. 

Sebum, hydration and skin barrier function differ, depending on ethnic group and age. It is both the amount of sebum as well as its content that affect skin condition [and facilitate skin feel].

  • US AFRICAN AMERICANS. African American women produce more sebum than Caucasian women. When looking at the sebum profile, wax esters are the class of lipids significantly higher in African American women [non polar, long, highly hydrophobic molecules that act as a barrier against excessive hydration or dehydration]. This correlates with better skin hydration, barrier function and probably also “oilier skin feel” in this ethnic group.
  • BRITISH CAUCASIANS. Sebum has a moisturizing or conditioning effect on any skin type. In general, oilier skin types seem to have better skin barrier but some of my Caucasian clients have oily and highly sensitive skin types that change through the cycle too. In my view, they have a weak barrier function and their sebum irritates their skin.

What sensations are consumers looking for? Comfort and soothing feel. Different per skin type, each to their own. Sebum profiling would allow us to explain these differences and formulate more personalised facial skincare.

 

 

By |2016-11-30T08:57:13+00:00August 19th, 2016|FaceWorkshops|Comments Off on Skin Sensation & Sebum Profiling
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