Skincare science or emotion? This is a debate which will be discussed at the In-Cosmetics 2019 Exhibition in Paris, which I am going to this week. Overall, the event should reveal the new ingredients and trends we’ll be hearing more about in the coming months and years. I attend so that I can meet with old friends and colleagues, and to visit the Innovation Zone. But one interesting issue for debate is the suggestion by Dr Karl Lintner, in this workshop at the exhibition, that cosmetic science has reached a ceiling - I cannot help but agree. The science of molecular biology and genetics or epigenetics has advanced our understanding of cellular mechanisms but consumers do not buy products only on the scientific evidence which emerges from such research. New concepts – blue light, anti-pollution protection, microbiome and new ingredients – cannot supersede the ‘human’ take on buying skincare, which is driven by pleasure and emotional choice. Some time ago, a study carried out by a large cosmetics company which looked at the "skincare science or emotion?" question concluded that approximately 95% of the purchase criteria for a cosmetic product is based on the texture. In my personalisation-based projects, I also consider skincare science or emotion and believe that achieving a great skin-feel
Personalisation in skincare is essential. As a clinician, I treat people from all walks of life – different ages, skin types and concerns – on a daily basis. There is a range of skin types but also motivation, compliance and budget amongst my clients. My role is to help them make an informed choice, to diagnose their skin type and make a product as well as lifestyle recommendations. The majority come back on a monthly basis and incorporate my recommendations into their routines at home. Skincare is a journey. I am honest with my clients in discussing what can and cannot be achieved in a month, a season or a year. Prevention is best for healthy, glowing and youthful skin. The younger generation are interested in health and prevention of premature ageing; in the older generation many people only address a concern once it becomes visible. Every face has individual facial structures that relate to the skin as well as the skeleton, facial muscles and the vascular and lymphatic systems. The facial tissues represent a dynamic system, influenced by health and lifestyle, responding to daily and monthly rhythms and ageing. The skincare industry approaches customisation on a macro level (skin type and concern, age groups) or micro-level (gene-analysis based skincare) but in the absence of large personal spending, clinically relevant solutions lie in understanding of individuals’ facial
Merck, as a large personal care ingredients manufacturer, aim to be at the forefront of innovation, debating scientific topics that are relevant and on trend. Their annual forum brings together primarily scientists from the German-speaking world carrying out research in microbiome, pollution and, in my case, touch. It is a privilege to be invited to Darmstadt, Germany, this Wednesday, to share my clinical expertise in a talk about “The Science of Massage for Different Skin Types”. We understand that sensory properties of skincare products – the texture, scent and skin feel – enhance the perceived wellbeing that results from their use. When developing new products, it is therefore important to understand how an individual’s skin type, age and ethnicity can affect their experience. Different application touch techniques can impact skin biology in different ways and this is where the science of massage is relevant. For example, the slow and deep techniques relax the brain, bring in more blood flow and stretch the collagen, producing dermal fibroblasts, collagen-making cells that get less active with ageing which leads to skin thinning, more wrinkles and sagging. By contrast, the light touch techniques refresh and drain the superficial lymphatic system, something which our bodies do less effectively as we get older, causing puffiness and sagging. Evidence-based
Online shopping driven by trends and recommendations does not always translate to the desired beautiful, clear and youthful looking skin. Skincare routines have to be personalised, particularly for the sensitive and blemish prone skin types. The Asian trends of Korean and Japanese beauty do offer a solution for these skin types - but the dosage, application and underlying skin biology are often too complex for people to make the right purchasing decisions. The European approach to beauty is more at leisure compared to our Asian counterparts. ppearance matters culturally; it reflects health, attractiveness and vitality-driven approach to life. The K-beauty (Korean beauty) regimens involve a series of steps: cleansing rituals with both oil and water-based products, sheet masks, essences, serums, lotions and high SPF sunscreens. Asian women in eastern cultures are known for eagerly embracing new skin care products and diligently performing complex routines. K-beauty appears to deliver its full benefits when embraced in its entirety, which, due to time constraints and a more ad-hoc approach to skincare, rarely happens in Britain. Japanese beauty is simpler, addressing better the clinical needs of sensitive and oily skin. These hand-picked products of Korean, Japanese and French provenance work well for sensitive skin with environmental, hormonal and lifestyle challenges. Writing a regular column for the
I am very proud to announce that my 9 Radiance Eye and Lip Serum has been shortlisted in the Pure Beauty Awards, just months after it was launched. This new product has been shortlisted in the Best New Premium Anti-Ageing Product category in these prestigious international awards. The Pure Beauty Awards are considered a highlight in the beauty industry calendar and the annual awards event attracts key industry professionals and leading UK retailers. The fact that my first eye and lip product has been acknowledged by the judges is a true commendation. Having spent over a year researching, formulating and refining 9 based on my scientific knowledge and salon-based experience, I’m very proud to have reached the final of the Pure Beauty Awards, especially when I’m competing against big budget international brands. The next stage of the competition is a public vote once the shortlist is announced in the September issue of Pure Beauty. Standards are incredibly high in the beauty industry so I’m very proud to be shortlisted and I have my fingers crossed that voters will share my passion for the serum and feel compelled to vote for it. Suitable for all skin types, 9 is a light satin-feel oil-based serum for the delicate eye and lip area. It is formulated from a unique blend
The under eye zone is one of the most delicate areas of the face. The skin is very thin, prone to lines and wrinkles, dark circles and pigmentation, eye bags and swelling. A number of factors contribute to these concerns of my clients, including genetics, lifestyle choices, lack of or low quality sleep and stress. Facial ageing is very individual. Different areas of the face age at different rates and our perception of age-related changes can impact on perceived age, attractiveness and tiredness. In the frontal view, the middle third of the face has the greatest effect on perception of age as it contains the eyes, nose, crow's feet, frown lines and under eye area. The appearance of eye bags improves over the course of the day, compared to morning. Frown lines, in contrast, worsen. Swelling occurs in the morning due to the effects of gravity during sleep. Repeated movements of the face in facial expressions increases transient wrinkle formation from the morning to the afternoon. Gravity and movement are likely to reduce swelling in the face during the day. The eyelid skin is distinct from others, with low skin surface lipids - skin's natural fats - and a thin stratum corneum, the upper layer of the skin with high hydration but
One of my favourite areas of interest in skin science is how touch can have a beneficial effect in a person’s skincare regime and on their wellbeing. The effectiveness of a product goes beyond simply the ingredients and how beneficial they are for the individual’s skin type – how is the skincare applied is crucial for reasons much deeper than you might think. When I talk about “touch”, I mean the pressure, the direction and style of the strokes, and whether a product is applied with the hands or a tool of some kind. It is quite incredible how many different approaches there are to facial massage. It varies from one culture to another, such as French Jacquet massage and the Japanese art of Kobido, for example. I have believed for a long time that the right type of touch can boost skincare product efficacy and generate a wave of positive emotions to make people look and feel well. Now, advanced research techniques can detect changes in brain wave patterns and different brain area activation. For the first time, the science provides evidence of the effect touch can have on the whole body. Skin is the largest sensory organ. New research has shown that skin senses external information in the same way that the brain does; it
Learn personalised Facial Yoga for lifting and relaxation (60 minutes) Individual session £40 Group of 3 people £15 each You will learn how your unconscious feelings are displayed in the face and why facial muscles become stiff and the face freezes into a permanent expression. At the end of the party, you will be able to focus on specific zones, releasing tension by easy-to-do moves and stimulate your facial points to work deeper on your feelings. You will be able to relax your face by massage, breathing and meditation. Read more about Facial Yoga here.
In preparation for my talk on touch at the Anti-Ageing Conference in London, I am looking at evidence for facial massage. Massage appears to inﬂuence the entire face and this may be one reason why visual evaluation is difﬁcult. The combination of 3D-CT analysis (enables us to recognize anatomical changes in the subcutaneous structures of the face) and visual assessment helps to evaluate the effects of facial massage in detail. The nasolabial folds are groove-like structures running outside of the nasal alae and the corners of the mouth. They are easy to evaluate visually. The adipose tissue out-side of the nasolabial folds is thick and forms the shape of the cheek. Facial massage method: Using cosmetic cream as a lubricant, facial skin and muscles were massaged relaxing the muscles and promoting blood and lymph ﬂow. The massage procedure (5 min long, repeated twice): 1) kneading the entire facial muscles with a ﬁnger tip, 2) upward rubbing from the bottom to top of the face with a whole finger (from jaw line, to cheek, forehead, and eyes) 3) rubbing from the bottom to the top of the face with all four ﬁngers RESULTS: Facial massage caused morphological changes at multiple locations on the face: a) the subcutaneous soft tissue around the jaw tightened, soft tissues moved upwards at sites around the jaw b) the thickness of fat tissue at the nasal
In this episode, we took a deep dive into cosmetic products. We spoke about what a cosmetic product is, effective active ingredients for different skin types, cultural differences in how we treat our skin, building our own skincare routine and more. Enjoy! Listen to the podcast here.