My interview with The EcoWell in Canada on skin biology and skin ageing. Enjoy! In this episode, we covered skin biology, including the structure of your skin as it relates to cosmetics, skin conditions like acne, the ageing process of your skin, and lots more. Listen to the podcast here.
In the New Year, we will be discussing the "power facial" and "face gym" as an alternative to Botox. All of the most sought-after London facialists are offering facial massage-based treatments: Nicola Joss is renowned for incorporating internal mouth work into her facial massage to reduce tension and loosen the jaw. Deborah Mitchell treats Botox-free celebrities with LIA therapy technique, a nonsurgical healing facelift, to tighten the skin and clear sinuses. Amanda Lacey promotes facial manipulation to redefine, soften and relax the face, so it looks natural. There is no need to travel to London to appreciate a "facial with a difference". My facial massage based treatments are on a par with the London offerings for a fraction of the price. The FaceWorkshops Anti-Ageing Massage treatment is an advanced massage sequence of ten complementary steps - backed up with science - brings your face back to life. It makes you instantly feel and look good and if done regularly, it will stimulate and tone your facial muscles and lift and contour the face, giving it a better definition. All facials need commitment. All facials need commitment - they are no one-hit wonder. If you come once, it will give you a glow. Ideally, you would have a course of treatments close together and come back regularly for top-ups. As
In their recent paper on Evolutionary Psychology of Physical Attraction and the Role of Skin Condition in Perception of Beauty published by the IFSCC magazine, the authors have quantified the visible difference in perception of skin colour and surface topography: In the forehead and the peri-orbital area, the study participants were able to detect as low as a 20% change in skin surface topography. In terms of skin colour distribution, a smoothing of inhomogeneity as low as 25% has a significant effect on facial heath perception. Visible signs of facial ageing impact on how attractive we appear to others. Since 2007, Procter & Gamble have invested into facial attractiveness research that demonstrates that uneven skin coloration - as well as lines and wrinkles - matter in our perception of our facial age and attractiveness! Whilst lines & wrinkles code for age, colour relates to perceived health of the individual. Whilst uneven coloration matters, forehead lines and wrinkles are the top concern of my clients. Managing their expectations in terms of discernible results deliverable by their skincare routine is essential. The research paper by Samson et al  relates to their age group, ethnicity [and severity scale of the concerns] : Perception and noticeability of skin surface topography was studied by computer manipulation of six facial images of British women, aged 45–65 years. All
"We assess facial appearance as a whole; unconsciously adding-up visible signs of ageing. Restoring a youthful appearance means reducing the appearance of multiple parameters - lines and wrinkles, sagging [loss of tone], pigmentation, redness, dry skin, dilated pores, and the irregularities of the skin surface. All of the ageing signs are related to less efficient cell physiology; a skin composed of "ageing cells" enters the senescence phase more rapidly than necessary. It's due to a successive accumulation of DNA damage over time; less effectively repaired and less well protected DNA." Prolonging Cell Longevity. Renovage™ - geranylgeranone, is a high-tech global anti-ageing ingredient that acts on the four dimensions of skin ageing: surface, depth and time. It provides anti-ageing and protective effects against stress related damage by maintaining cell division [telomere stabilization and DNA maintenance], improving tissue quality [by optimal cell communication and rebalancing cell metabolism]. Renovage™ prolongs cell lifespan extension by one third. Clinical & Cell Culture Results. RENOVAGE™ acts as a cell facilitator and corrector. In vitro studies show several properties that aid recovery of skin function and structure to avoid premature entry into cell senescence. Protection and repair of oxidative lesions and nucleic elements Keeping of catalasic antioxidant protection to 100% Reduction of apoptosis after UVB radiation exposure Reduction in the expression of heat shock proteins HSP27 and HSP70 The entry in senescence of fibroblasts is
One thousand French women took part in the beauty survey - let's look at their views on attitudes toward beauty and ageing (perceptions of internal and external age) and concerns about skin ageing and “preventative” measures employed (lifestyle choices and skin care). The research shows that the majority of women become aware of facial ageing in their mid-30s, when fine lines appear and they feel looking tired. This survey captures the views of French women - it would be interesting to identify cultural variations in Britain. Attitudes towards beauty. Younger faces are considered to be more attractive than older faces - with older female faces being the least appealing. Skin condition - in particular colour and texture - is an important indicator of youth, health, and physical attractiveness. The peak of beauty was judged at an average age of 36 years. Nevertheless, 92% also thought it was possible to grow old “beautifully” - the main factors for facial beauty were a natural look, self-confidence, and attractive skin. Nearly 80% of women feel younger, and believe themselves to look younger, than their true age. As women reach their mid-30s, a gap starts to develop between the age they feel inside [internal age] and the age reflected by their faces [external age] - even though they
My recent column in Cosmetics & Toiletries looks into skin diagnostics and the way we judge the efficacy of our skincare products at home. Living in the digital world of self-scrutiny - and “on-display” - through social media further fuels consumers’ expectations. Smart beauty devices are becoming reality as the “quantified-self trend” grows with the number of sensors available to monitor our body vital signs. Are you using any of the at-home diagnostic devices or online apps that can assess your skin status and/or track the progression of your skin concerns over time?
Bad Lifestyle Habits Impact on Your Facial Ageing These photos speak for themselves. Drinking, smoking and junk food affect our appearance in the long-term. The 42-year-old freelance journalist Anna Magee worked with a forensic artist to create images of what she’d look like 10 years from now adopting different lifestyles. She admits to having cheek fillers and Botox injections in the past. The three projected images show her face 10 years from now: SMOKING After 10 years of smoking a pack of cigarettes a day. Please note the deep wrinkles, dark under-eye circles, and sagging brow, eyelids, and cheeks. A survey of over 1,000 Yahoo! users found that only 28% of smokers admit to being addicted and dependent on cigarettes with 72% claiming “I choose when I smoke and can go without at any time.” 41% of the people ages 18-34 said they only smoke in a social setting, but if you want to avoid these nasty signs of aging, every cigarette may count. Fifty-six percent of people ages 18-34 said they smoke when drinking.
What women want is to look like better versions of themselves, without losing their expression and character. Nowadays, they are more vary of looking "done" than old - in light of celebrity images where Botox, injectables or surgery went wrong! Facial expression is crucial for basic human interaction. Lines are a proof that we've lived -we get them when we laugh and express ourselves. The mentality that encourages women to emulate perfection is about the safety of belonging. (Dr C d'Felice: Dare To Be You, Orion). In transforming themselves into living dolls, women feel they fit. Forget the "ideal" image - when it comes to beauty, it's time to embrace your unique features Your face is your business card - learn to care for it. Make sure you are doing 99 % right in terms of skincare, facial yoga and relaxation. Make a point of noting the positive aspects of your appearance in the mirror before you critique the negative. Cosmetic procedures can offer benefits but the dangers arise when they erase the features that give personality to a face. In general, people dislike the lack of variety that often comes with these procedures - and although we strive to look fabulous, we should also look real. Source: Betts, H. Busting the beauty myth. Psychologies August
We all want to look good for our age but we age at a different rate! French research shows that women of the same age living in the Paris area (with relatively homogeneous genetics and lifestyle) can look 10 years younger or 10 years older for their age. Skin type and avoiding extreme lifestyle behaviours (suntanning, diet and smoking) explain only 10 % of this variation! It is the more subtle genetic and lifestyle factors e.g. stress as well as our skincare routines that are of greater importance in terms of how well we age. Source: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12437451
Sun is the dominant factor in the onset of premature ageing! Had we always protected our faces, the way Japanese women often do, our skin would age in a different, subtle way. Ageing with sun protection Our aged face would have a smooth and even surface with only few fine wrinkles. We would be able to distinquish some loss of elasticity (due to thickenned, disoriented bundles) and thinning (atrophy) but no signs of inflammation and only a moderate decrease in perfusion giving our facial skin slightly drawn, pale appearance. The upper skin layer, epidermis, would be still working well in comparison to photo-aged skin. Ageing in the sun (photo-ageing) If we have suntanned all our life, our facial skin will have an uneven (bumpy) surface and sallow, yellowish tone with mottled pigmentation (sun spots). We will see coarse wrinkles and a severe loss of elasticity (due to the thickening of dermis and increase in elastotic amorphous mass, less structural fibres and underlying inflammation). Also the capillaries become prominent on the skin surface (teleangiectasia) contributing to the uneven skin colour. Epidermal changes - and the risk of skin cancer - are also profound. If like me you would rather your face aged in a subtle way, protect your face during the summer. Source: http://tinyurl.com/32w7exe ***