One of my favourite areas of interest in skin science is how touch can have a beneficial effect in a person’s skincare regime and on their wellbeing. The effectiveness of a product goes beyond simply the ingredients and how beneficial they are for the individual’s skin type – how is the skincare applied is crucial for reasons much deeper than you might think. When I talk about “touch”, I mean the pressure, the direction and style of the strokes, and whether a product is applied with the hands or a tool of some kind. It is quite incredible how many different approaches there are to facial massage. It varies from one culture to another, such as French Jacquet massage and the Japanese art of Kobido, for example. I have believed for a long time that the right type of touch can boost skincare product efficacy and generate a wave of positive emotions to make people look and feel well. Now, advanced research techniques can detect changes in brain wave patterns and different brain area activation. For the first time, the science provides evidence of the effect touch can have on the whole body. Skin is the largest sensory organ. New research has shown that skin senses external information in the same way that the brain does; it
In preparation for my talk on touch at the Anti-Ageing Conference in London, I am looking at evidence for facial massage. Massage appears to inﬂuence the entire face and this may be one reason why visual evaluation is difﬁcult. The combination of 3D-CT analysis (enables us to recognize anatomical changes in the subcutaneous structures of the face) and visual assessment helps to evaluate the effects of facial massage in detail. The nasolabial folds are groove-like structures running outside of the nasal alae and the corners of the mouth. They are easy to evaluate visually. The adipose tissue out-side of the nasolabial folds is thick and forms the shape of the cheek. Facial massage method: Using cosmetic cream as a lubricant, facial skin and muscles were massaged relaxing the muscles and promoting blood and lymph ﬂow. The massage procedure (5 min long, repeated twice): 1) kneading the entire facial muscles with a ﬁnger tip, 2) upward rubbing from the bottom to top of the face with a whole finger (from jaw line, to cheek, forehead, and eyes) 3) rubbing from the bottom to the top of the face with all four ﬁngers RESULTS: Facial massage caused morphological changes at multiple locations on the face: a) the subcutaneous soft tissue around the jaw tightened, soft tissues moved upwards at sites around the jaw b) the thickness of fat tissue at the nasal
I read India Knight's Sunday Times Style column with interest and, secretly, have a conversation with her every time she publishes a piece on facial skincare. The Strike Oil article on 1st January caught my eye. Introducing the world of facials that can make an actual, immediate and noticeable difference to your appearance and improve your complexion overtime to the general public is a great message. Only one in four women in Britain has a regular facial, and usually not by a highly trained facialist. Also highlighting the expertise of London-based celebrity facialists, with magic hands and a range of tools from massage, peels to resurfacing and stimulating devices is fabulous. As India notes, super-facialists aren't cheap and have waiting lists. But not every super-facialist lives in London, there are a handfull living outside of the capital who also bring "power facials" and "face gym" hands-on skills and expertise; East Yorkshire, in my case. Glowing, healthy skin requires more than a monthly facial, it is an at-home routine. Super-facialists have their own range of products that you can buy to use at home; they may not be cheap, but they work. India has faith in their expertise and likes the pared-down simplicity of Amanda Lacey's range. Praising her Oils of Provence luxurious face oil [lavender, sage, ramose, eucalyptus, bois de rose] for oily skin, India
In the New Year, we will be discussing the "power facial" and "face gym" as an alternative to Botox. All of the most sought-after London facialists are offering facial massage-based treatments: Nicola Joss is renowned for incorporating internal mouth work into her facial massage to reduce tension and loosen the jaw. Deborah Mitchell treats Botox-free celebrities with LIA therapy technique, a nonsurgical healing facelift, to tighten the skin and clear sinuses. Amanda Lacey promotes facial manipulation to redefine, soften and relax the face, so it looks natural. There is no need to travel to London to appreciate a "facial with a difference". My facial massage based treatments are on a par with the London offerings for a fraction of the price. The FaceWorkshops Anti-Ageing Massage treatment is an advanced massage sequence of ten complementary steps - backed up with science - brings your face back to life. It makes you instantly feel and look good and if done regularly, it will stimulate and tone your facial muscles and lift and contour the face, giving it a better definition. All facials need commitment. All facials need commitment - they are no one-hit wonder. If you come once, it will give you a glow. Ideally, you would have a course of treatments close together and come back regularly for top-ups. As
I encourage my clients to aim high in terms of their skincare products. To treat themselves to NICE skin feel & scent as well as interesting & effective active ingredients, good for their skin type.. It is important to establish a pleasant skincare routine that changes with seasons; a sophisticated skincare routine – ideally without the price tag. I advise my clients to be savvy and scrutinise the commercial sites for discounts & bargains (FeelUnique, SpaceNK, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Time to Spa, even Amazon) and also visit TkMaxx, Boots, Holland&Barrett for skincare and “skin health” supplements or shop with the organic MyShowcase. Good skincare can be found in unexpected places – last year’s Aldi Caviar Peel was a great product for a fraction of the high-street price.
Specific anti-ageing technologies should be targeting different facial zones and ageing features. Technologies on my wish list are new, clinically relevant and evidence-based yet accessible (distribution channel and price) for my clients. The appearance of facial skin depends on the quality of many different tissues - bone structure, muscles, sub-dermal deposits of fat, dermal and epidermal layers as well as perfusion and lymphatic drainage - that differ in distinct facial zones. In Caucasians, research into which ageing signs matter most has confirmed that nine features correlate the most with perceived age (Oriflame research in Russian women aged 40 +): wrinkles in the upper part of the face (crow's feet, glabellar (frown), under-eye and forehead wrinkles) wrinkles in the lower half of the face (upper lip, nasolabial fold) sagging of the jawline (in the aged 41 to 65 years) severity of hyper pigmented spots - red and brown (although to a lesser extent) Anti-ageing solutions specifically targeting these features have to entail: lifestyle changes (bad mimic habits - impacting on frown and lip lines, smoking - lip lines & skin quality e.g. acne, inadequate sleep and nutrition - sleep lines & skin quality e.g. tired, dull complexion ) daily facial yoga, self-massage and regular professional face massage with or without rollers (for increased perfusion and lymphatic drainage, alignment,
In our February FaceWorkshops MiniCase Study, we tried the new Body Shop facial massage. I did not have many volunteers for this routine, therefore only two - however, very comprehensive views - below. REVITALISING DANCE FACIAL WORKOUT The participants cleansed with their own cleansers, then used a few drops of their plant oil and worked with the video routine from Step 3. They applied their own moisturiser as the last step. Participant A's Comments: The Positives NEW STROKE TYPES. I really like the stroke across the for head using two fingers from each hand. I also like the first stroke using the fingers across the chin - it's very similar to the motion used by Su Mann in her massage which I really enjoy. After that it's hard to add anything else.. SHORT. It's a very short program designed for someone who had little time or inclination to put a lot of effort into their massage. EFFICACY? Indeed I felt as if I might as well have just massaged the oil into my skin (dry to mature skin type) using a circular motion it seemed so short. Participant B's Comments: YOUNGER AUDIENCE. I think this video is probably aimed at a younger audience. It reminded me of a teenage girl singing into her hairbrush in front of the
Looking good for your age feels fabulous. And quality skincare does not have to break the bank - the results are also in your (and your facialist's) hands. Facial creams are only a part of the solution. It is the professional facial massage (every 4 - 6 weeks) and a personalised daily "at home" care that make the difference! 1. Go shopping for a PERSONALISED bargain. Ask questions of your beauty therapist so that you can respect their credibility. A good skincare specialist will be able to save you money on efficacious products. We all love a bargain - but only if it works! 2. Save money by PROTECTION and PREVENTION - at any age. Be diligent with your skincare routines. Use a gentle cleanser and a serum underneath your moisturiser. Use a mask regularly and learn the art of skincare layering. Remember that skincare has a shelf life - change your products every season. 3. RELAX YOUR FACE in the evening by bespoke facial yoga and a gentle massage routine. 4. Invest in regular PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS. Only 25 % of British women invest in facial treatments. The Brits worry about appearance and facial ageing but don't do much about it. Having a facial has not been ingrained in women since childhood (as in France) or demanded by the society (e.g. USA). As the Parisians say - enjoy the face you have today.
Daily facial massage is essential for youthful looks. We have tried an Asian Technique brought to the UK by the London facialist Su-Man. What They Liked About It • A simple and quick massage - so easy to follow * felt good * fits well within skincare routine • Quick to do & easy to understand - yet need to keep referring to video. • I particularly liked the ear rubbing and the stroking movements and the massage behind the ears, neck and cheek muscles. • I did find that holding the position for a number of seconds made things slow down and was almost meditative. “What I liked most about it was the feeling that I was doing something good for myself, it felt self-nurturing and that felt nice Feeling the Benefit? • I found it really woke my face up, made my eyes feel and look less tired, left me feeling more alert. It felt stimulating. The stroking moves at the end felt quite calming and soothing. Overall I felt a bit uplifted by it. • Skin looked brighter. Relaxing especially the gentle sweeps at the end. • My face feels glowing after the massage * I feel enlightened. Face feels alive and cared for * I did have a sense of
To understand if you are doing the best for your facial skin, answer YES/NO to the following questions: Skin Type Do you understand your skin type, concerns and prognosis (ie. how your ageing will progress)? Skincare & Facial Massage @ Home You are happy with your skincare routine? Do you like your skincare product formulations (textures/ fragrance)? Do you know specific techniques to apply your skincare in different facial zones? Do you massage your face at home? Do you practice personalised Rolling & Acupressure? Do you practice Facial Yoga? Do you look forward to using your skincare products twice a day ? Do you have realistic expectations regarding the efficacy of your skincare? Seasonal and Hormonal Changes Do you have a personalised winter and summer routine? Do you understand how to prevent concerns arising from travelling and hormonal cycles? Health & Lifestyle Do you understand the impact of your specific health issues (e.g. quality of sleep, allergies, medication) on your skin? Do you understand how your lifestyle (e.g. suntanning, smoking, alcohol, diet, water intake, exercise, relaxation, family support) affects your skin? Professional Treatments Do you have regular professional treatments that complement your care @home - be that every 2, 4 or 6 weeks? Wrinkles, Emotions and Facial Expressions Draw your concerns e.g. frown lines, laughter lines, pigmentation