One of my favourite areas of interest in skin science is how touch can have a beneficial effect in a person’s skincare regime and on their wellbeing. The effectiveness of a product goes beyond simply the ingredients and how beneficial they are for the individual’s skin type – how is the skincare applied is crucial for reasons much deeper than you might think. When I talk about “touch”, I mean the pressure, the direction and style of the strokes, and whether a product is applied with the hands or a tool of some kind. It is quite incredible how many different approaches there are to facial massage. It varies from one culture to another, such as French Jacquet massage and the Japanese art of Kobido, for example. I have believed for a long time that the right type of touch can boost skincare product efficacy and generate a wave of positive emotions to make people look and feel well. Now, advanced research techniques can detect changes in brain wave patterns and different brain area activation. For the first time, the science provides evidence of the effect touch can have on the whole body. Skin is the largest sensory organ. New research has shown that skin senses external information in the same way that the brain does; it
As I am putting final touches on the Mindful Evening Facial Massage Chart, I refer to the work done by Professor Mark Williams in Oxford on Mindfulness Meditation. Stress
"We assess facial appearance as a whole; unconsciously adding-up visible signs of ageing. Restoring a youthful appearance means reducing the appearance of multiple parameters - lines and wrinkles, sagging [loss of tone], pigmentation, redness, dry skin, dilated pores, and the irregularities of the skin surface. All of the ageing signs are related to less efficient cell physiology; a skin composed of "ageing cells" enters the senescence phase more rapidly than necessary. It's due to a successive accumulation of DNA damage over time; less effectively repaired and less well protected DNA." Prolonging Cell Longevity. Renovage™ - geranylgeranone, is a high-tech global anti-ageing ingredient that acts on the four dimensions of skin ageing: surface, depth and time. It provides anti-ageing and protective effects against stress related damage by maintaining cell division [telomere stabilization and DNA maintenance], improving tissue quality [by optimal cell communication and rebalancing cell metabolism]. Renovage™ prolongs cell lifespan extension by one third. Clinical & Cell Culture Results. RENOVAGE™ acts as a cell facilitator and corrector. In vitro studies show several properties that aid recovery of skin function and structure to avoid premature entry into cell senescence. Protection and repair of oxidative lesions and nucleic elements Keeping of catalasic antioxidant protection to 100% Reduction of apoptosis after UVB radiation exposure Reduction in the expression of heat shock proteins HSP27 and HSP70 The entry in senescence of fibroblasts is
My clinical experience with supplements to improve skin health is empirical. I work in an affluent area of East Yorkshire, yet the number of my clients that are: a) dedicated enough to adjust their lifestyle and food choices and b) able to invest in a skin supplement are limited. They get results when compliant. Having reviewed the impact of diet on acne (link to the publication), I strongly believe diet has an impact on inflammatory skin conditions - and clinically I see an improvement when my clients stick to these dietary recommendations every day. In terms of supplements, I used to recommend Oenobiol Pure Skin (no longer available) and any probiotics with diverse bacterial species, however, Symprove has proven to work best for my clients. Symprove is a water-based multi-strain supplement that contains 4 unique strains of live activated bacteria, they have trialled the supplement at UCL. The strains include: L. rhamnosus, E. faecium, L. acidophilus, and L. plantarum. Normally a healthy gut would already contain all four of these, however when it doesn’t, it can soon become unbalanced. In my view, the gut in inflammatory skin conditions is unbalanced. My hypothesis agrees with Whitney P Bowe, et al. Gut Pathog. 2011;3:1-1. Psychological stress alone [or in combination with high fat diet and/or processed comfort foods devoid of fiber] cause alterations to
I encourage my clients to aim high in terms of their skincare products. To treat themselves to NICE skin feel & scent as well as interesting & effective active ingredients, good for their skin type.. It is important to establish a pleasant skincare routine that changes with seasons; a sophisticated skincare routine – ideally without the price tag. I advise my clients to be savvy and scrutinise the commercial sites for discounts & bargains (FeelUnique, SpaceNK, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Time to Spa, even Amazon) and also visit TkMaxx, Boots, Holland&Barrett for skincare and “skin health” supplements or shop with the organic MyShowcase. Good skincare can be found in unexpected places – last year’s Aldi Caviar Peel was a great product for a fraction of the high-street price.
Face&Body Expo, Chicago March 12 - 14, 2016. One of the best beauty shows I have experienced - informative presentations, best examples of "organic" and "active" skincare brands. I have a talk on the benefits of professional facial massage that has been recorded and I will share it with you soon. The talks I enjoyed most as relevant to my clinical practice were given by: Dr Erin Madigan-Fleck on naturopathic treatment of protein deficiency and how it impacts on ageing skin (Atlanta, Georgia). An important issue to discuss with my vegetarian clients! Dr Mark Lees's approach to acne care (Florida) - similar principles to my practice, using more of alpha/beta hydroxy acids and considering diet a little less than I do.. Great review of current beauty&spa trends by IDI Dermalogica trainer Annet King (Los Angeles) Practical showcasing of Janel Luu's introduction into her Asian lymphatic drainage on 10 pressure points technique with dark jade stone Eminence Skincare intensive physio-based massage skills & showmanship Large portfolio of all natural products (you can see the coarse structure of ingredients), traditional Hungarian line Eminence Organics, not for sensitive skin types in my view! The hard physio-based massage is what makes the difference! Their amusing shows (imagine balloons, Minion rucksacks, comedy) are very popular. Interesting brand by Dr Pugliese. As their representative
Specific anti-ageing technologies should be targeting different facial zones and ageing features. Technologies on my wish list are new, clinically relevant and evidence-based yet accessible (distribution channel and price) for my clients. The appearance of facial skin depends on the quality of many different tissues - bone structure, muscles, sub-dermal deposits of fat, dermal and epidermal layers as well as perfusion and lymphatic drainage - that differ in distinct facial zones. In Caucasians, research into which ageing signs matter most has confirmed that nine features correlate the most with perceived age (Oriflame research in Russian women aged 40 +): wrinkles in the upper part of the face (crow's feet, glabellar (frown), under-eye and forehead wrinkles) wrinkles in the lower half of the face (upper lip, nasolabial fold) sagging of the jawline (in the aged 41 to 65 years) severity of hyper pigmented spots - red and brown (although to a lesser extent) Anti-ageing solutions specifically targeting these features have to entail: lifestyle changes (bad mimic habits - impacting on frown and lip lines, smoking - lip lines & skin quality e.g. acne, inadequate sleep and nutrition - sleep lines & skin quality e.g. tired, dull complexion ) daily facial yoga, self-massage and regular professional face massage with or without rollers (for increased perfusion and lymphatic drainage, alignment,
A good analogy for the holistic approach I advocate for the face - personalised skincare routine, professional treatments and at-home facial exercise - is exercising the body. If we want to tone up and achieve a better silhouette, we have a choice of a) an instant tummy tuck or b) to engage in a bespoke exercise regime. The later requires more effort and personal commitment, and the results are delivered slowly in comparison to the former. I have been witness to the adverse side effects of Botox, fillers and facial fat transfer making me firmly believe that the holistic approach is a health-affirming, if longer-term path, to inner beauty. When looking at the psychology of appearance, I refer to Dr Eileen Bradbury who said that undergoing cosmetic procedures often exposes us to a judgement of being vain; we receive little sympathy from our peers. Yet, we all strive to look attractive and struggle with ageing (see my survey). Attractiveness is important in all walks of life - symmetry and evenness of facial skin and features signal our health. Yet, we often don't see each other in movement, or when smiling, only static in the mirror. There is something disturbing about asymmetry - and as we age these asymmetries become more exaggerated. For example, sleeping on one side can contribute to more lines and a slightly 'squashed'
Launching new or innovative skincare products? The beauty market is saturated, yet in perpetual need of NEW products (35 % of purchases annually) that are not always scientifically relevant or innovative.. PACKAGING. Creating value in the eyes of the consumer often stems from packaging - at least for people that don't have difficult-to-treat skin types or too many ageing concerns. CONVENIENCE. Mobile purchases are becoming more popular than desktop and Google favours e-commerce sites that are mobile friendly. The online journey and feeling welcome on the site - as well as product reviews are becoming extremely important. After all, the beauty industry is about talking to people.. Packaging needs to appeal, be simple and fit for purpose - but at the end of the day, it is only the outer shell of the product. SKIN BIOLOGY, LIFESTYLE & COMPLIANCE. Buying skincare differs from other beauty purchases. Your skin type is unique and the factors that influence you individually depend on genetics and lifestyle - efficacy, the right choice of active ingredients and sensory aspects of skincare products come first! The price, quality, size and prestige attributes are secondary. Go shopping when: you understand your skin type and active ingredients that alleviate your concerns know how to layer your products know how your skin changes during the day and seasons appreciate how does it
Looking good for your age feels fabulous. And quality skincare does not have to break the bank - the results are also in your (and your facialist's) hands. Facial creams are only a part of the solution. It is the professional facial massage (every 4 - 6 weeks) and a personalised daily "at home" care that make the difference! 1. Go shopping for a PERSONALISED bargain. Ask questions of your beauty therapist so that you can respect their credibility. A good skincare specialist will be able to save you money on efficacious products. We all love a bargain - but only if it works! 2. Save money by PROTECTION and PREVENTION - at any age. Be diligent with your skincare routines. Use a gentle cleanser and a serum underneath your moisturiser. Use a mask regularly and learn the art of skincare layering. Remember that skincare has a shelf life - change your products every season. 3. RELAX YOUR FACE in the evening by bespoke facial yoga and a gentle massage routine. 4. Invest in regular PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS. Only 25 % of British women invest in facial treatments. The Brits worry about appearance and facial ageing but don't do much about it. Having a facial has not been ingrained in women since childhood (as in France) or demanded by the society (e.g. USA). As the Parisians say - enjoy the face you have today.