Science of 4 Active Ingredients 2017-04-12T16:59:56+00:00
Science of  4 Active Ingredients

The 4 Anti-Ageing Serum contains a unique combination of active ingredients. They were selected, after thorough research, for their ability to improve the appearance, renewal and regeneration of facial skin.

Anti-Wrinkle Cylindrotheca Fusiformis

Marine micro-algae Cylindrotheca Fusiformis, sourced from French Riviera, has a powerful anti-wrinkle effect and stimulates cellular proliferation in the dermis and production of structural proteins by fibroblasts. Clinically, it has been proven to visibly decrease wrinkle depth and volume and dramatically improve elasticity, hydration and softness of the skin.

Cylindrotheca fusiformis microalgae species, is a diatom with an elongated silica shell shape. The extract shows a complex structure of ingredients beneficial to the skin: Amino acids; Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) [an omega-3 that plays a role in inhibiting leukotrienes which are mediators of inflammation]; Carotenoids [particularly fucoxanthin, a major antioxidant]; Sterols [especially cholesterol, well known for its role in maintaining good skin condition and structure].

The Anti-Wrinkle Effect

As a powerful antioxidant, the active acts to remove free radicals and helps prevent cell structure damage in the dermis layer. It stimulates the synthesis of collagen [a protein responsible for supporting skin growth and organisation] and elastin [helping to maintain skin elasticity, tone and texture].

In vitro

The active ingredient has been shown to stimulate cellular proliferation and ex-novo synthesis of collagen. In dermal fibroblast culture, it has been shown to significantly increase collagen synthesis [by +19.3% in 24 hrs, at same concentration used in the 4 Anti-Ageing Serum] compared to an untreated control cell culture.

In vivo

Clinical study shows a significant and visible anti-wrinkle activity [even at a lower concentration than used in the 4 Anti-Ageing Serum]. In 2 months, there was a decrease in wrinkle depth [by 10.4%] and a decrease in wrinkle volume [by 12%] compared to baseline [before treatment].

Self-assessment

Volunteers confirmed an improvement of elasticity, hydration and softness of the skin.

Self-Regenerative Stem Cell Technology For Vertical Line Re-surfacing

Re-surfacing Vertical Lines

Extract from Indian Gentian leaves [Swertia chirata] stimulates epidermal proliferation, increases regeneration and promotes dermal thickness. This ingredient has won a Silver “Best Ingredient” Award for Innovation at the international trade exhibition In-Cosmetics in 2015. Clinically, the active has been [in the same concentration as in 4 Anti-Ageing serum] proven to resurface facial skin and blur vertical wrinkles. This gives the perception of a “younger, more relaxed facial expression” with diminished lip lines and eye puffiness. Please click on this link to understand how the active ingredient works.

RENOVAGE™ For Cell Longevity

“We assess facial appearance as a whole; unconsciously adding-up visible signs of ageing. Restoring a youthful appearance means reducing the appearance of multiple parameters – lines and wrinkles, sagging [loss of tone], pigmentation, redness, dry skin, dilated pores, and the irregularities of the skin surface. All of the ageing signs are related to less efficient cell physiology; a skin composed of “ageing cells” enters the senescence phase more rapidly than necessary. It’s due to a successive accumulation of DNA damage over time; less effectively repaired and less well protected DNA” Sederma, France.

Prolonging Cell Longevity

RENOVAGE™ – geranylgeranone, is a high-tech global anti-ageing ingredient that acts on the four dimensions of skin ageing: surface, depth and time. It provides anti-ageing and protective effects against stress related damage by maintaining cell division [telomere stabilization and DNA maintenance], improving tissue quality [by optimal cell communication and rebalancing cell metabolism]. RENOVAGE™ prolongs cell lifespan extension by one third. RENOVAGE™ acts as a cell facilitator and corrector. In vitro studies show several properties that aid recovery of skin function and structure to avoid premature entry into cell senescence. A clinical study showed that RENOVAGE™ [conducted on 24 volunteers, applying 3% cream twice a day] exerts a significant and visible activity on both functional and structural signs of ageing:

After 1 month

Increase in skin hydration [34%]; Increase in firmness [12%] and tone [15%]; Decrease in erythrosis [30%] and Reduction of dilated pores [17%].

After 6 months

Reinforcement of barrier [+19%]; Decrease in pigmented spots [42%]; Decrease deeper wrinkles [-47%] and medium wrinkles [-34%] and Reduction of dilated pores [26%].

Subjective Rating

In support of all of the clinical measurements, the volunteers were asked to rate the perception of the quality of their skin after 6 months of use: 87% observed improved skin profile and softer skin and > 70% observed a reduction of wrinkles and lines, more uniform appearance of the skin and firmer, improved skin tone. [RENOVAGE™ is a Trade Mark of Sederma, France].

Liquorice [Glycyrrhiza glabra]

We predict that future research will further highlight the benefits of liquorice in skincare. In traditional Chinese medicine, liquorice (甘草) is believed to “harmonise” ingredients. Liquorice has been traditionally used in Ayurveda for rejuvenation and as a home remedy for skin lightening throughout Asia.

A Soothing Ingredient

Liquorice extract has soothing properties – ideal for sensitive and irritated skin – and may be effective in improving the appearance of an uneven skin tone and hyper-pigmentation. Liquorice root and rhizomes contain glabridin [a potent antioxidant and soothing ingredient] and glycyrrhetic acid, a triterpenoid saponin glycoside. Sun light [and mainly ultraviolet radiation UVB] is the major factor in skin ageing. Glycyrrhetinic acid has been shown to possess antioxidative properties and modulate immunity.

In an animal model, glycyrrhetic acid attenuates UV-induced skin damage by its antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as regulating the abnormal expression of tissue damaging enzymes [matrix metalloproteinases MMP-1, MMP-3].

In vitro

In a cell culture of dermal fibroblasts, glycyrrhetic acid alleviates UVB radiation-induced damage. Glycyrrhetic acid and glabridin also prevent oxidative DNA fragmentation in UVB-irradiated human keratinocyte cultures.

Anti-Sagging Ingredient

Early research from Shiseido [Japan] suggests that liquorice and facial exercise can help to improve skin sagging. Having studied how the loss of dermal anchoring structures leads to sagging, Shiseido discovered that exercises [to contract and relax facial muscles] can stimulate fibroblasts to prevent sagging. Liquorice has been used as the active to mimic the facial exercise.

“The vertically arranged dermal anchoring structures function is to prevent facial skin sagging. They are vital to retain the facial skin structure lost with age.”

Facial sagging is one of the biggest ageing concerns. Research has shown that facial skin contains convex matrix structures that may retain the dermis in subcutaneous tissue, named “dermal anchoring structures”. Whilst dermal fibres are arranged horizontally in the lower part of the dermis, they are arranged vertically in the dermal anchoring structures.

Biologically active components of liquorice still require further research to demonstrate the benefits in prevention and management of skin conditions e.g. rosacea and atopic dermatitis [References available].

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