Launching new or innovative skincare products? The beauty market is saturated, yet in perpetual need of NEW products (35 % of purchases annually) that are not always scientifically relevant or innovative.. PACKAGING. Creating value in the eyes of the consumer often stems from packaging - at least for people that don't have difficult-to-treat skin types or too many ageing concerns. CONVENIENCE. Mobile purchases are becoming more popular than desktop and Google favours e-commerce sites that are mobile friendly. The online journey and feeling welcome on the site - as well as product reviews are becoming extremely important. After all, the beauty industry is about talking to people.. Packaging needs to appeal, be simple and fit for purpose - but at the end of the day, it is only the outer shell of the product. SKIN BIOLOGY, LIFESTYLE & COMPLIANCE. Buying skincare differs from other beauty purchases. Your skin type is unique and the factors that influence you individually depend on genetics and lifestyle - efficacy, the right choice of active ingredients and sensory aspects of skincare products come first! The price, quality, size and prestige attributes are secondary. Go shopping when: you understand your skin type and active ingredients that alleviate your concerns know how to layer your products know how your skin changes during the day and seasons appreciate how does it
Individual needs. Everyone has a different skin type - a result of nature (genes) and nurture (lifestyle and skincare) and it is important to match the skin type to the right products. There is no brand on the market to address all skin types. The Right Choice. Product choice should be based on objective scientific evidence but also on individual preferences. It is about the active ingredients but also about how light/rich a formulation feels and how well the skin absorbs it. The richness is, to a degree, subjective and so is a fragrance. Some people love and some hate lavender or geranium! We are appealing to niche skincare brands to send us their samples. It is easy to have a great skin with a big budget but we are trying to highlight the best products on the market below £50! We would like to tease out what is the best about each brand and give our clients a choice beyond skincare available in Yorkshire. We are looking to introduce Slow Skincare movement that values biodynamic, organic or sustainable approach, where appropriate. However, pharmaceutical ingredients have an unequivocal role in anti-ageing and treating acne prone and sometimes even sensitive skin types.
Vichy Lift Activ Serum 10 (30 ml), £29.50 vs. YSL Forever Youth Liberator Serum (30 ml), £60 L’Oreal is the parent company of both YSL and Vichy and has launched the new YSL skincare line to repeat the commercial success of their make-up and fragrance products, eg. Touche Eclat. Claims Comparison: YSL – anti-wrinkle lift/plump/radiance vs. Vichy – velvety texture/advance anti-wrinkle efficacy/long-lasting lifting effect. FaceWorkshops Recommendation: SAVE £30! Similar products in terms of the main ingredients, rhamnose and glycerol that benefit the skin by increased hydration. Both products contain a small amount of hyaluronic acid (long-term hydration). The Vichy serum contains a ceramide derivative, salicyloyl phytosphingosine, with a potential anti-wrinkle benefit. The Vichy serum also contains less alcohol that can be detrimental to the healthy barrier function of facial skin. I would expect the efficacy of the Vichy serum to be slightly superior – given the higher content of rhamnose, the additional ceramide derivative and less alcohol in the formulation. We are awaiting the clinical studies.
Being an insider allows me to comment on the technology used in skincare: not many people understand that Lancome is a L’Oreal brand and sharing technologies across the board within one company is to be expected. Genifique £55/30ml vs. L’Oréal Youth Code £17.19/30 ml FaceWorkshops Recommendation: SAVE £37 (but only if you like more fragranced skincare). – Both products contain Biolysat, an anti-ageing ingredient, beneficial for facial skin. There is some scientific evidence for Biolysat, Adenosine, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine – albeit coming from L’Oreal and Degussa but published in peer reviewed journals. The main ingredients improve inflammation and skin sensitivity, however, the high level of alcohol is not ideal for sensitive skin types. AESTHETICS: As always with prestige skincare, the aesthetics of Genifique is more refined and there is less perfume than in the Youth Code. EFFICACY: Genifique contains more of Hyaluronic acid (temporary plumping effect through hydration) and Adenosine, less Salicyloyl phytosphingosine and no Peptides. The products have similar efficacy – save your money and buy the Youth Code if happy with the stronger perfume! Personally, I like the Genifique texture more with more hyaluronic acid and no peptides. Read more about both products..
I prefer recommending ethical skincare as I feel better using products that respect nature and help local communities. Is sometimes sustainable better than organic? To differentiate the benefits of both, please read below. Sustainable Skincare Helps Local Communities The Cradle-To-Cradle certification follows rigorous independent assessment by the Environmental Protection and Encouragement Agency (EPEA) to ensure that ingredients meet ecological and health criteria based on the Cradle to Cradle Design Concept (C2C). The ingredients must be either continually reusable or biodegradable and renewable. They must be healthy for users and for the environment. Their production and use must also offer social and economic benefits for its producers. For beauty and personal care products, the Cradle-To- Cradle concept means that ingredients are extracted from natural materials, or, “biological nutrients,” that are given back to nature after usage to become part of the ecological cycle. Aveda has been the first beauty company to receive Cradle to Cradle certification for four botanical ingredients: sandalwood oil from Australia, rose oil and lavender oil from Bulgaria and uruku from Brazil. The first Aveda ingredients to meet or exceed the stringent standards of Cradle to Cradle certification are: – organic uruku sustainably harvested by the Yawanawa people in the Brazilian Amazon; – rose and lavender essential oils grown and
Research shows that not all daily moisturising creams that contain UV filters and claim to provide broad spectrum UV protection provide UVA protection. Day moisturisers are an established part of our skincare routine and skincare manufacturers are increasingly adding UV filters to skin care products as the link between UV radiation and photo-ageing progresses has been proven. A review of the ingredients of the 29 top selling day creams with claims of broad spectrum UV (using sales volumes from the US website Amazon) assessed the level of UVA protection that could be expected from the product, looking for the presence of the UVA filters - avobenzone, octocrylene, ecamsule (L'Oreal patented Mexoryl SX) and zinc oxide. 6 of these 29 products contained no active ingredients that provide UVA protection. 7 of the remaining 23 contained zinc oxide but only 3 contained levels greater than 5 % required to provide ‘adequate’ UVA protection. 16 products contained avobenzone but only 3 had adequate concentrations of octocrylene necessary to stabilise the avobenzone, notoriously unstable on contact with UV rays. Although the study notes that further research is needed to investigate the actual UVA protection provided by the products, the researchers conclude that many day creams do not offer long wave UVA protection. Source: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21242349
Each British woman carries in her handbag daily £256 worth of skincare and make-up according to department store Debenhams. According to research, the average cosmetic bag is made up of 13 products each costing in average £20. 95% of women admitted that they wouldn’t go anywhere without mascara followed by 79% of women who said a bottle of perfume was a must in their handbags. Meanwhile 76% of women revealed that they could not do without foundation. The average price for a bottle of perfume was reported to stand at around £50 while the average foundation was priced at £25. The research also revealed that women between 35 to 44 years old were those with the most valuable cosmetic items in their bags, with consumers in London, Glasgow and Leeds carrying the most make up especially on a Friday when they get ready for a night out. Source: http://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/article_page/Average_value_of_a_womans_make-up_bag_is_256/59091
With the end of 2010 fast approaching, forecasters are consulting their crystal balls for new things to come in skincare. We would like to share with you the top trends! The Frugal Mindset The "Lipstick Theory" claiming that women will always find money for beauty (established during the WWII) is likely to hold true in the UK. The same can be said for facial skincare, although we are becoming more frugal and comfortable to shift from prestige to mass-market brands. Our mindset makes us look for promotions, bargains and vouchers. Streamlined Skincare Routines We will buy only what we really need! High-end of mass-market skincare will remain popular thanks to its multi-functionality - you may have noticed the recent launch of Olay Regenerist 3 Point Super Serum at Boots. Procter&Gamble made us wait for the "red carpet product" demanding samples and subscribing to the waiting list! Luxury. Skin Health. Natural, Sustainable Sourcing We expect it all but for less money! We care increasingly about "the holistic approach". We require skincare to have organic or fairtrade credentials, proven efficacy and a feel good factor. New trends involve exotic plants and multi-energising actives. Discover Origins and Elemental Herbology. At Home Spa experience is best on cold winter days! Source: Euromonitor International 2010.
2010 Forthcoming Trends by Mintel Market Research (In-Cosmetics Paris April 2010) New Naturals - embracing natural skincare with more focus on RESULTS and less on organic certification (as in the past) Turbo Beauty - high-science skincare utilising medical science and using pharmaceutical ingredients Mood Beauty - exploring neurotransmitters and feel good factors; enabling psychology, well-being and beauty to come together. Protect - professional, high-tech and protection from within (glycation, hormonal imbalances) http://www.in-cosmetics.com/page.cfm/EMSLinkClick=2130_1060_822_289016_10622_1375
As discussed in my previous blog, Boots had an unprecedented commercial success in Britain in the past few years. The Boots Protect & Perfect serum case gave clear evidence to the skincare industry that a little science could do a lot more for sales than any amount of expensive glossy advertising! The latest attempt to promote a skincare product through serious scientific scrutiny, this time by Procter & Gamble, hopes to emulate the success of Boots and provide us with a proof of superior efficacy! This month the British Journal of Dermatology will publish a scientific study showing that an anti-ageing cream, Olay Pro-X, is as efficacious at reducing wrinkles as a prescription-only treatment. In the study, 99 women who applied the Olay product several times a day for six months were compared to other 97 women receiving prescription-only retinoid treatment with well-known efficacy. Wrinkle reduction was assessed by grading on high-resolution digital images at eight and 24 weeks into the trial and showed that an appropriately designed cosmetic regimen can improve facial wrinkle appearance comparably with the benchmark prescription treatment and without its side effects. P&G plans to launch Olay Pro-X in Britain next year! And the active ingredients look great - more about them in my next blog. Source: http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/beauty/article7026342.ece